作者: zippy (山丘) 站內: MountClub
標題: [中]吉爾吉斯搜救隊報告
時間: Fri Sep 15 19:09:22 2000
> 作者: etch (蒼鷹) 站內: MountClub
> 標題: 吉爾吉斯搜救隊報告
> 時間: Fri Sep 15 08:56:52 2000
>
> Description: Rescue, transportation, formalities, ritual services for
> remains of Mr. Jackson (USA) and Mr. Wang (Taiwan) by the leader of
> rescue team.
說明:
關於Jackson先生(美)及王先生(台)遺體的搜救,運送,喪葬典禮等說明
筆者為搜救隊領隊
> The accident took place in Kyrgyz Republic (CIS) on
> Terskey Alatoo range (Southern side of Issyk - Kul lake) in Karakol
> valley. The name of the peak is Slonenok 4726 m. ("Elephant" in
> English) on August 29. According to Russian rating it was 3B,
> classical route.
事件發生在八月二十九號,於吉爾吉斯共和國的Terskey Alatoo地區
(在伊息庫爾湖南方)的Karakol山谷.這座山峰名為 Slonenok (4726m,
其意為'大象').在俄國的難度屬於3B等級,一條典型的路線.
> Information of two expedition members (UIAA)
> perishing and an order for realization of rescue and transportation
> works was received by "Tien Shan RTM" through morning radio connection
> at 8:00 am on 31.09.00. The order was made from the expedition leader
> Victor Grischenko. The same day rescue team was completed and also the
> helicopter was ordered for the flight to Karakol.
兩位UIAA探險隊員遇難的消息在九月三十一日早上八點,由探險隊領隊
Victor Grischenko發出,被 '天山RTM' 接收到.當天便已組織好搜救隊並訂好
飛往 Karakol 的直昇機.
> Until 5 P.M. there
> was no permission for the flight because of weather reason. At 5 p.m.
> the helicopter left airport "Manas" to bring the rescue team which
> took the helicopter in the city landing at the old airport. On the way
> to Issykul lake the helicopter flew round the thunder front under the
> Boom valley and had to land because of weather reason in Cholpon - Ata
> city.
由於天候因素,直到當天下午5點直昇機才允許出發,由 "Manas" 機場
到當地的舊機場接搜救隊.往伊息庫爾湖的途中,直昇機頂著雷電飛行於
'Boom' 山谷,且不得不因為天氣因素降落在 'Cholpon - Ata'城.
> Next morning (01.09.00) at 7:00 a.m. the helicopter left Cholpon
> - Ata for Karakol city where it got additional fuel and then it took
> off to Karakol valley. The first landing in Karakol valley was made at
> Base Camp (the camp was located at the place under the name Kok-Bor).
> After some consulting of bodies location the helicopter took the
> expedition leader Mr. Grischenko and followed to the place of
> accident.
次日早晨(九月一日)早上七點,直昇機離開'Cholpon - Ata'城,經'Karakol'
城並補充油料,續飛往 'Karakol' 山谷. 首次降落於 BC (位於Kok-Bor下方),
經過一些討論並確認遺體位置後,接起探險隊隊長Mr. Grischenko 飛往
出事地點.
> After exploration flight of Slonenok Peak the helicopter
> landed on the glacier approximately 1000 meters off the place of
> falling down at the altitude 3800 meters above sea level to get off
> the rescue team then it flew back to the base camp. The bodies were
> snowed and above the snow only part of rucksack is visible. After some
> searching the bodies were found and dig off the snow. Group started to
> prepare the bodies for transportation. Both of them were close to each
> other wrap with ropes which were used for climbing.
在熟悉Slonenok Peak 附近地形後,直昇機降落在約墜落地點的下方
約一千公尺處(海拔3800m),讓搜救隊下機之後便返回基地營.遺體已
被雪覆蓋止可見到部分的登山背包露出.經過片刻的搜尋,找出遺體並
挖掘出來.搜救隊並開始準備遺體的運送準備.兩具遺體的墜落地點
很接近且都被攀登主繩纏繞著.
> The bodies of Mr.
> Jackson and Mr. Wang were delivered to the the place of landing the
> helicopter by drag inside of special packed bags. For landing the
> helicopter on the glacier special place were prepared. In 2 hours and
> 45 minutes after the set down the team the bodies were put into the
> helicopter. There were made detail flied down of the mountain to find
> out the exact route of ascend and falling down the mountaineers, make
> some pictures and try to get the reason of falling. As we could get
> from our observation of the route the group got ascend on icefall on
> "Metalurg" pass (located between Slonenok and Karakolsky Peaks) and
> then on the Western ridge started to ascend Slonenok peak.
傑克生先生及王先生的遺體在特製的袋子中被拖送到可供直昇機
降落地點.為了使直昇機得以降落,共花費二小時四十五分完成緩坡
及將遺體送上機的準備.我們詳盡的記載出事地點且拍下他們的攀登
路線及墜落地點,試著了解何以墜落.由我們的觀察可得,他們的攀登
路線由 "Metalurg" 冰瀑起攀(位於Slonenok 及 Karakolsky峰之間 ),接著
往Slonenok西稜上攀.
> Approximately until the middle of the ridge there were visible fresh
> footprints. Closer to the summit footprints were also visible but not
> so good. Most likely those footprints belonged to another group which
> took ascend the same Peak but much earlier. On the middle of the ridge
> on snow-ice slope we could see two clear tracks similar to the bodies
> falling. Tracks were located about 20 meters each other. Character
> peculiarity of tracks were that lower track was much deeper and longer
> than upper one. We can make a conclusion that the first fell down the
> mountaineer who was lower and who pulled off the upper one at the
> moment of falling.
大約在稜線中段之前,有留下的清楚的足跡.接近頂點處也留有一些
不甚清晰的腳印,可能是另一個早先的隊伍在攀登時所留下.在稜線
中段的冰雪坡,可以見到兩道清晰的類似兩位受難者的墜落痕跡.兩道
痕跡間距約為二十公尺.由這兩道痕跡的特徵來看,位於下方的痕跡
較另一條清晰且深.我們可以由此推斷首先墜落的是位於下方的隊員,
接著將另一位隊員一同拉下.
> By landing in Bishkek the helicopter was met with
> special car for transfer the bodies to morgue.
>
> Komissarov Vladimir.
> Director
> _______________________________________________
直昇機降落在Bishkek後,由特別的車輛載送遺體至停屍間.
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>
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