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Posted by Chris Borrelli
The most 'authentic' Italian restaurants in Chicago?
What are the most "authentic" Italian restaurants in Chicago? According to the
Italian government? And the Midwest chapter of the Italian-American Chamber of
Commerce? Well, apparently there are just eight:
Tony Mantuano's Spiaggia; Tony Priolo's Piccolo Sogno; Chris Macchia's Coco
Pazzo; Bruno Abate's Tocco; Mauro Mafrici's Pelago Ristorante; The Village;
Merlo on Maple; and Volare (on East Grand).
"Huh?" you're wondering. "Why these?" you're thinking. What about . . . you
know, that other place? The one in my neighborhood with the Al Pacino picture
on the wall? Allow me to explain. This designation, this "Ospitalita Italiana
Seal" of approval, is being handed as a kind of joint project between the
Italian-American Chamber of Commerce and Italy's National Institute of Tourist
Research, which devised a quality control program in 1997 for restaurants
across Italy and started expanding internationally last year.
The local restaurants saluted for their authenticity will be part of a dinner
March 17 at the National Italian American Sports Hall of Fame on Taylor Street.
(Tickets are $70 unless you're a member.) But if your favorite is not on that
list, don't feel bad. I called the Chamber and here's what happened: They put
out a call to a bunch of local Italian restaurants and gave them the criteria
they would have to meet.
Among those criteria? Restaurants had to have at least one employee that speaks
fluent Italian; the decor must reference Italy in some way; the menu had to use
the Italian language as its first language; the wine list had to be at least 20
percent Italian; they had to serve at least five Italian recipes; the chef had
to be Italian trained, either in an Italian restaurant or Italy itself; and the
olive oil must be Italian.
So there you go. Eight restaurants applied, and eight restaurants were
accepted. Mystery solved.
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