推 madme:感謝pony 好認真好厲害!! 09/06 14:31
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推 applelin:推 翻譯好酷! 09/29 09:44
看到台攀有人轉文，想說翻譯到隊板供大家參考。
我盡量表達專有名詞或特定動作，如果有不通順之處，歡迎指教。
原文轉載自Climbing http://ppt.cc/5kV8
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Tech Tips: Sport Climbing - Flight School
By Arno Ilgner / Illustration by Jamie Givens
運動攀登技巧：學習墜落
撰文：Arno Ilgner/繪圖：Jamie Givens
Just because you don’t actually feel afraid to fall does not mean you are
completely comfortable falling. It’s the uncertainty that gets us. We know
we might fall, so at committing cruxes we hesitate, second-guess, slap lamely
for a hold, or simply let go. What we need is more practice with the whole
falling process, so we can commit 100 percent to hard climbing. It’s important
to dial down the stress of falling a little at a time. Remain comfortable as
you practice: don’t just climb up and take a big whipper. You’ll tense up and
“endure” the exercise, further ingraining a fear-based mindset. Instead, use
the follow-ing methods, which extend your comfort zone in small increments,
just like any good “stretching” activity.
儘管不覺得害怕，但這不代表墜落時你能夠完全的處之泰然。墜落時的
不確定感會如影隨形跟著我們。當我們意識到墜落的可能性，面對眼前
難關我們猶豫、猜疑、怯懦地找個手點抓，甚至直接放棄。我們需要的
正是對於墜落過程的完整練習，以便在處理艱難的攀登路線時能全神貫
注在眼前的路線上。事關緊要的是逐次逐步削減對於墜落的壓力。在練
習墜落時保持心情放鬆，千萬別只是爬往高處後就兩腿開開往下跳，因
為這樣只會讓你心情緊繃並抱持著「撐」過這次訓練的心態，進而形成
以恐懼為基底的思維模式。相反的，善用下列幾個訣竅，就像做好的伸
展操一樣，便能夠微調你墜落時的放鬆程度。
THE SET-UP
Begin by picking a slightly overhanging sport climb with a clean mid- or upper-
section. Start with short falls in case there are obstacles you didn’t notice.
The terrain should be easy enough that you can climb up or down without too mu
ch effort. Lead up 40 to 50 feet. At the bolt of your choice, stop and have you
r belayer lower you about 15 feet, creating a toprope scenario with plenty of
rope in the system. Begin practicing here.
準備工作
首先，從挑選中或上層沒有太多阻礙並且稍微帶有天花板地形的運動攀
登場地開始。第一步要做的是先進行幾次短距離的墜落，以確認在墜落
途中沒有任何障礙物。突出的平台部分要夠簡單，足以讓你游刃有餘地
上、下攀。先鋒攀登約12~15公尺後在你選定的耳片附近停下，讓你的
確保員將你垂降約5公尺，這時整個系統就像上方確保攀登一樣，有著
足夠的繩距。墜落訓練於是展開。
TOPROPED FALLS
Your belayer should lock you off (not taking in slack) as you climb up a few
feet. Now take a fall. Focus on your form: look down, with arms and legs should
er-width apart and bent, and exhale as you fall. Looking down allows you to see
your landing zone. A relaxed-but-ready arm and leg position allows you to
respond to the impact into the rock, if any. Exhaling throughout the fall helps
you stay relaxed. The longer your fall, the longer your exhale should be. Next
, climb up five or six feet while your belayer locks you off, still on toprope,
then fall as before, looking down and keeping arms and legs shoulder-width
apart and bent. Exhale all the way through the fall. As you gain comfort,
slowly increase the distance of the fall, but never climb above the level of
the highest clipped bolt. If you begin tensing up, backtrack to shorter falls
until you can fully relax. Once you’re falling 15 or 20 feet on a slack
toprope, exhaling the entire way, you can move on to short lead falls.
上方確保墜落。
當你往上攀爬時，確保員應該收緊而非放鬆繩子，接著就放膽墜落。此時
注意自身的體態：向下看，保持臂膀跟腿與肩同寬且彎曲（譯者：即身體
放鬆），在下墜時呼氣。向下看以便看準降落的區域，雙臂與雙腿保持放
鬆但又充分準備的狀態，讓你得以對於與任何岩壁（石）的衝擊做出反應
。在墜落過程中呼氣，讓你能夠保持放鬆。呼氣的長度應該與墜落的距離
成正比。接著，在保持上方確保的狀態下，請確保員收緊繩索並往上爬2至
3公尺後，按照先前所述要點再墜落一次。當你對墜落不感到緊張時，試著
逐步增加墜落距離，但千萬不要高於最頂端的過繩快扣。如果練習過程中
發現不安感增加，請減少墜落距離，直到你可以放心墜落為準。一但你在
上方確保繩索不收緊的狀況下可以承受4到6公尺的墜落時，你就可以開始
練習短距離的先鋒攀登墜落。
THERE’S A CATCH
When you practice falling, make sure you also practice catching a patner’s
falls. Belaying falls will help you understand what to look and ask for when
you’re leading. If you are inexperienced or nervous about catching falls,
you’ll contract and stay rooted to the ground, causing a hard catch and
possibly slamming the leader into the rock. Instead, “give in” to the fall
and allow yourself to be pulled up two to five feet or more, depending on the
force of the fall. Don’t jump; let the force of the fall do the work.
Practice catching people of different body sizes. Giving a knowledgeable,
cushioned catch is critical for keeping your partners safe during lead falls.
抓準墜落時機
當你練習如何墜落時，請一併練習如何確保夥伴墜落。確保墜落的攀登者
將幫助你瞭解當你進行先鋒攀登時應該留意或要求的細節。如果你對確保
墜落尚不熟悉或感到焦慮，你可能會過於緊繃並且死命地收緊繩索，造成
僵硬的墜落確保，或甚至將先鋒攀登者硬生生地甩向岩壁。相反的，你應
該「順從」墜落的動態，並根據墜落的強度讓你自己被拉起1公尺，甚至更
長的距離。切記，不要跳起來，而是讓墜落的力道將你拉離地面。練習確
保不同體型的人。提供思慮周延並且柔和的墜落確保將是保全夥伴在先鋒
墜落時的安危關鍵。
LEAD FALLS
Using the same rigging as before, climb to the high bolt while your belayer
gives you a regular lead belay. With the bolt at your waist, let go, falling
as far as the slack in the system allows. Pay attention to your form: looking
down, arms and legs bent, exhaling through the fall. Climb up a move or two
and practice short lead falls until you are comfortable and relaxed. Slowly
increase the length of the fall. The belayer should be giving you a very
active, cushioned catch. Exhale slowly all the way down each fall, and remember
to simply let go, not jump out. Jumping out will cause you to swing more
sharply into the rock as the rope comes tight. You can test this effect,
carefully, to see how it works and improve your falling and impacting skills.
At all times, the catches should feel very soft. Spread out your practice
sessions over several days, and slowly increase the distances until you are
taking falls longer than those you’re facing on your project routes.
Incorporate a few falls into your daily warm-up routine. You can also do this
exercise on a project you’re working on, practicing a specifi c fall that
might be holding you back. If you discover that your project does not have
a clean, safe fall, you’ve learned something vitally important. Pick a safer
climb for pushing your limits. With a little time focusing on commitment to
falling, you’ll improve your commitment to climbing. It may be too late to
get physically stronger for this autumn’s projects, but a clearer mind might
be just what you need to send.
先鋒墜落
按照前述要點，在確保者持續收繩的狀況下爬到最高點，當耳片大約在你腰
際時就放手，墜落的距離以能讓系統中鬆弛的繩段延展為標準。此時注意先
前提醒過的墜落預備體態。向上爬幾步，然後練習短距離墜落直到你不再焦
慮且能夠放鬆為止。墜落途中別忘記呼氣，並注意僅僅是放手，不要從岩壁
上一躍而下。跳躍動作在繩索繃緊時會使你以更尖銳的角度擺盪、衝擊岩壁
。你可以在仔細控管的前提下測試跳躍墜落的效果，並從中學習如何改善墜
落與應付衝擊的技巧。在絕大部分的情況下，確保的動作應該是非常柔和的
。將你練習墜落的時段延長至數日，並且慢慢增加墜落距離，直到你能夠處
理相較於你在攀爬路線時可能面對的更長的墜落。將墜落數次安排進你的每
日熱身常項裡。你也可以在你目前正試著克服的路線上進行這項訓練，練習
處理讓你一墜再墜的難關。如果你發現在該路線上無法俐落、安全的墜落，
你就學到事關重要的一課：選擇更安全的路線作為提昇自身極限的挑戰。花
費少許時間專注於墜落上，你就能更聚精會神地攀岩。為了接下來要面對的
路線，也許已來不及進行體能提昇訓練，但清晰的思緒也許正是你需要的。
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