[攀岩] 奪命勾環

[Houyhnhnms (buffoonery)]

前幾天有人提到要淘汰山房的Ocun勾環（此牌產品以前似乎發生過爆扣事件）
剛好在臉書上看到這篇文章，就順手番一下。
這篇文章最棒的是--有圖有真相，用剖面圖告訴你，用被繩索磨凹的勾環爬岩
，無異於拿刀割繩索！文章裡面也有提到一些確保小技巧，不禁讓我想到以前
剛開始爬岩都喜歡站很遠很遠，我想一定是因為我們都不敢墜落，所以沒發生
什麼意外吧...老天保佑。

全文轉譯自：http://ppt.cc/i;tQ
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QC Lab: Dangers of rope worn carabiners
There was an accident a few weeks ago at the Red River Gorge where
a climber fell going to the second bolt and the rope was cut completely
through by the fixed draw’s sharp-edged, rope-end biner at the first bolt
數週前，紅河谷（Red River Gorge）有位攀岩者正準備要掛上第二個快扣時墜落
，綁在身上的繩索被固定在牆上的快扣從連接攀登者的尖銳部分完全切斷。
（詳細事件請見：http://ppt.cc/zBdf ）

If you recall the previous testing and commentary on this subject
I had stated that I’d only seen ropes getting “sheathed” by sharp-edged
biners—usually mid-route—and subsequently learned of an accident in
the Czech Republic (in a climbing gym) where the rope-grooved sharp biner
(also at the first bolt) severed the rope completely, resulting in the
climber   hitting the ground.   Luckily in both cases, the climbers were
not badly injured.
如果你想請先前針對此類事件做過的測試跟評論*
我當時表明我只見到繩子被快扣的尖銳端「剝皮」，這樣的情形通常發生
在路線的中間部分（？）過沒多久就傳來在捷克的運動攀岩場發生意外事
件，同樣在第一個快扣高度，繩子就被快扣被繩子磨凹的尖銳部分完全切
斷，造成攀登者墜地的事故。幸好在這兩件事故中，兩位攀岩者都沒有受
重傷。
(相關測試請見：http://ppt.cc/Gagd)

Which biners get badly grooved and why?
到底哪一個快扣會嚴重磨損，又為什麼呢？
From my experience falling all over routes, all over the county,
I’ve noticed   three primary locations where fixed biners become
badly grooved:
從我在全國各地攀岩的墜落經驗來看，我注意到快扣固定在三個位置上時有
可能會嚴重磨損。

1) First Bolt
Belayers typically stand too far away from the wall.
This results in a sharp angle in the rope from the belayer to the
first biner and then up the route.   When   lowering a climber, the
rope, often dirty and gritty, slowly wears a groove in the
biner.   Both incidents I’ve heard of where the rope was cut completely,
it was the   first bolt that was the culprit.
 一、第一個快扣
確保員通常都站離牆邊太遠。這使的確保者跟第一個快扣尖形成銳利的角度後
，繩索就往上連接。當攀岩者下降時，已經沾滿泥沙的繩索便慢慢地在扣環上
磨出條溝。在這兩起繩索完全被切斷的事故裡，兇手都是牆上的第一個快扣。

2) Crux Bolt
Many climbers being lowered off the same biner (falling at the crux onto
the same   bolt). This has the same effect as above. The sharp angle of
the rope wrapping around   the biner and the weight of the climber being
lowered is what is allowing the rope to   slowly cut through the biner.
二、難關部分的快扣
許多攀岩者都在同個快扣部分被下降（在同樣地方墜落）。這與前段提到的影響
相同。繩索以尖銳的角度貼著勾環，而攀岩者的體重正是使得繩索得以逐漸磨蝕
勾環的元兇。

3) Out of line bolts
Often if the bolt line isn’t straight, an out-of-line biner can end up
being grooved. Once again, this is caused by the rope and its angle
running over the biner surface.
三、不在路線上的快扣
如果路線上耳片的排列不呈直線，在直線外的快扣可能會被嚴重磨損。同樣的，這
是由於繩索與穿過勾環的尖銳角度所造成。

Testing
We’d done some testing before, but decided to do one more super
quick test in our   drop tower just to see what it would take to cut a rope
 on a sharp-edged biner in a   harsh, but realistic, loading scenario.
測試
我們先前曾做過些測試，但仍決定在我們的墜落測試塔（drop tower）上進行一次
 快速的檢測，以瞭解在擬真的強力衝擊狀況下，造成繩索被勾環尖端所切斷的原因。

Setup
Sharp-edged biner (actual biner used in test shown directly above)
80 kg mass
brand new 10.2 mm rope
One harsh, but realistic, drop
Static belay
準備事項：
具有尖銳邊緣的勾環（如上圖所示）
80公斤的重物
全新的10.2mm（動態）繩
擬真的強力墜落
靜態確保

Results
Rope cut on the FIRST drop (see image below)
Max load reached - ~7 kN
測試結果：
繩索在第一次墜落就被切斷（見下圖）
達到最大墜落係數，大約7kn

Discussion
Once again, what does this mean?   What does 7 kN actually mean
at the piece   of protection?   What does it mean to you, the gear
 and the rope?  Well… 7 kN falls can and do happen in the field.
These can occur:
討論：
我們不禁要提出同樣的問題：這測試意味著什麼？7kn的衝擊力道對一項安全
防護器材意味著什麼？這對你、你的裝備以及繩索意味著什麼？嗯...7kn的墜
落力道有可能，而且也的確在現實環境中發生，這可能造成以下事項：

usually when there is not much rope out (i.e., early on in the climb).
With not enough rope out, there is little rope to help absorb the
energy of the fall.
確保者還沒有給太多繩（在開始攀登初期），在沒有太多繩索的狀況下，能夠
吸收墜落力量的繩索有限。
and with a close-to-static belay (i.e., belayer hauls in rope and even
 leans back  , trying to keep the climber from hitting the deck.).
Loads are decreased with a   dynamic belay, but increase with a static
 belay.
如果確保者採用的是近乎靜態的確保方法（確保者猛力抽繩，甚至將身體後傾，
試著讓攀岩者免於撞上牆面）。在使用動態確保時，衝擊力道會減低；反之，靜
態確保會增加衝擊力道。

The climber usually “feels” these sorts of falls.
Your kidneys take a beating, your   hips are sore, and your feet may
even hurt from slamming into the wall.   I’ve seen   many a climber
take a harsh fall low on the route—it's usually followed by a deep
grunt and “lower me”.
攀岩者通常會「感受」到這樣的墜落經驗。腰酸背痛，你的腳甚至因為撞上牆面
  而受傷。我已經看過太多攀岩者在路線開頭就遇上嚴重墜落，通常這會伴隨著幾
聲哀號以及「放我下來」的要求。

The reality is these sorts of harsh falls low on a route with a sharp
biner in play and   the rope running over its sharp edge at angle (belayer
 standing away from the wall) can, and obviously have, resulted in damaging
 and even cutting the rope.
事實就是，這些在路線起步的嚴重墜落，搭配上被磨尖的勾環，以及以尖銳角度穿
過勾環尖銳部分（確保者站離牆面太遠）的繩索，就是造成繩索耗損，甚至被切斷
的主因。

Bottom Line  Now I don’t want to get into some ethical debate on whether
routes should be left with   fixed draws or not.   The bottom line is you
can do a few things to reduce the impact on   fixed gear:
stand close to the wall when belaying, especially when lowering
use your own first draw on the first bolt of fixed routes
use long slings to help reduce rope drag
use steel biners on “high traffic” fixed draws
應注意的基本原則：
我並不想重提那些是否要在牆上固定放置快扣的老生常談。但在使用固定在牆上的裝
備時，至少有幾項重點事項應該注意。
確保的時候站離牆面近點，在下降他人時更是如此。
在有放固定快扣的路線上，在第一個耳片扣上自備的快扣。
使用長sling(?)以減少拖拉繩索（譯：推測是用長sling以增加繩索過勾環的角度）
在使用頻率高的快扣處使用鋼製勾環。

And of course, it’s in everyone’s best interest to replace worn and
tattered fixed gear.
當然，最好是能淘汰掉已經磨損不堪的固定裝備。

Be careful out there
快樂出門，平安回家
=========================================================================

譯註：
1.原文中bolt部分，因為bolt都連接著快扣，當講到第幾個bolt的高度時，一律翻成
  「到第xx個快扣的高度」
2.有幾個專有名詞我依照印象翻，請高手指正
  carabiner/biner:勾環
  quickdraw:快扣
  bolt：耳片
  sling:就叫sling=.=，我不知道中文
  lower：只將攀岩者往地面下降的動作，為了與rappel(垂降)做區分，一律翻成下降
  sheath：動詞意思為套上護套或護鞘。個人推想是繩子受磨損後，繩皮經摩擦後起
          毛邊的情況，所以引申翻譯為「剝皮」
  fixed gear:直翻為固定（在牆上）裝備，應該是指固定放在牆上的快扣。



匆忙翻譯，如有疏漏，歡迎指教

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◆ From: 140.119.144.114
※ 編輯: Houyhnhnms      來自: 140.119.144.114      (10/08 01:07)
→ Houyhnhnms:看那被切斷的繩...有點毛
推 jcwang:這也太誇張了
→ jcwang:bolt: bolt
推 sorrowone:幫忙確保的時候一直都不太喜歡站很遠　覺得若爬的人fall
→ sorrowone:容易被往前拉　會怕沒站好跌倒出事之類的
推 smallshiang:感覺這快扣是人工弄出來的 正常用不會磨出這麼直角