覺得可能跟海岸邊 海底的沙脊構造形成的原因相關
可能可以用淺水模型模擬
可以參考底下這篇論文
http://iopscience.iop.org/0951-7715/8/5/008
或是搜尋相關文章
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a new scientific truth does not triumph by convincing its opponents,
but rather because its opponents eventually die
and a new generation grows up that's familiar with it.
Max Planck
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