[遊記] 2008夏之畢旅姬路篇-姬路城

[odyssey505 (小．梅．子^^)]

相簿版:       http://www.wretch.cc/album/album.php?id=odyssey505&book=31
圖文網誌版:   http://www.wretch.cc/blog/odyssey505/5416842

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2008/06/26 星期四 天氣陰

如同前兩天的氣候一樣
今天仍然是陰天

很棒的天氣
涼涼的

不會沒事得一直撐傘
也不用流了一身汗
心情不佳又暴躁


對於我們這兩個討厭太陽的人
這種天氣實在是太棒了!!!


回想持田媽媽第一天的話
一直到我們去的前一天
仍是下著不小的梅雨


一瞬間覺得自己好幸運

也很感謝老天的配合
沒有讓我嘗試到像東京一樣的炎熱天氣





第三天的旅行
平日少運動的我
也開始有了倦態

腳腳雖有休足時間的大力相助
但是也是有累積的痠痛感

反正累了就休息
不想逛了就刪行程
這不就是自助行的好處嗎??


沒有領隊的聒噪提醒
沒有時間限制的拍照
沒有討厭的強制購買




旅行
就是要休息

汲汲營營

奔來奔去


到底是趕人還是趕什麼??



不懂

真的不懂


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早晨起來
仍是有豐盛的早餐等帶著我們

日式菜餚總是有一貫的風格

量不多
以菜色取勝


變換不同的口味
品嚐道地的日式早餐


民宿比一般飯店更具有人情味
總愛從小細節體驗不同的風俗民情


旅行
就是如此充滿樂趣







搭上前往姬路的新快速
學起日本人 聽起了ipod

聽著各國歌曲 英文 中文 日文

語言的不同
卻是同樣透過音樂傳達人心


"音樂無國際 不分你我"


即使語言不通
相同的旋律
對彼此的感動卻是一樣的



隨著音符 數著節拍
心情隨著節奏輕快的曲調
哼出愉悅的樂章


好愛音樂
如此有吸引人的魅力


彷彿具有魔力般的媚惑

我沉醉旋律之中
也沉淪在音樂海之中












抵達了JR姬路站
出了大門便能看見前方的姬路城


傲視著這整個城市
如同統治天下的君主一樣
冷冷的俯看著現今的繁華


時代在變
不變的是姬路城的風華絕代





從車站向姬路城走去大約有十分鐘的步程
但是腳腳早已舉白旗投降


空曠的姬路市
不太有像台北密集的高樓大廈

吹起了陣陣涼爽的風
不禁打了個哆嗦




車站旁有著可愛的觀光巴士--"お姬樣"

鮮艷的亮紅色
引起眾人的目光

車資相當平怡近人 100元日幣而已

若是沒有閒情逸致慢慢逛街的人
或像我們一樣鐵腿多天的人
歡迎搭乘這輛方便的小車








徐風吹來
掀起水面陣陣漣漪

河岸邊的柳樹
隨著清風搖曳身影


難怪離客騷人
歷代偉大詩人

無不以這悠閒景致
揮灑出無數讚美詩篇




踏著我的小碎步
微風吹起我的頭髮

看著護城河的美麗

幻想物換星移前的古都
身穿大河劇的古代衣裳


可曾想過

數百年後的今天?




是也 非也




活在當下

畢竟滄海桑田非所願



心中記憶下此時此刻
這是我專屬的姬路回憶

存在現在 存在此刻的我








世界遺產姬路城
日本國寶姬路城

人們賦予你這樣的名字

重點在歷史中的涵義
而非觀光產業的興榮











灰白色的外牆
古時的防禦要點

經歷歲月侵蝕
仍是直直地挺立在世人的眼前








老實說
看著天守閣的方向
讓我聯想著時代劇中
面不露笑意的將軍

皺著眉頭
彷彿思考著影響戰役的下步旗


第一層與第二層 形成將軍的頭冠
第三層的兩個倒V屋簷 是目露凶光的眼睛
第四層的弧形蜿蜒 變成將軍必備的八字鬍


旁邊的小天守閣 是隨時待命在旁的小仕

隱身在樹林間的側房 是跪著報告軍情的忍者




以下介紹姬路城的部份歷史
千萬別嫌無聊

既然是遊記
來到了歷史悠久的建築物

不免要稍微的介紹一番

光只有圖片
不懂其歷史背景

猶如進寶山卻空手而回

觀賞其建築之美
當然要與歷史相連接

才能達到心領神會
才知其為何具有保存價值


PS. 因為只看的懂英文版
故將景點上的介紹牌子謄下
讓大家對姬路城有進一步的理解






第一站: 西之丸 にしのまる　West Bailey (從大門向左轉走便可見到)

This garden is where Lord Tadamasa Honda (本多忠正) built a very
gorgeous residence for his son. Tadatoki who married Princess Sen (千姬),
a daughter of the 2nd Shogun, Hidetada Tokugawa (德川秀忠). The residence
called Chusho Maru (中書丸)or Tenjuin Maru (天樹院丸) was built in 1618.

There is a long buildong which is about 300 meters long. It is
called Hyakken Corridor (百間廊下) and it is where women maids who waited on
Princess Sen lived.

The section at the right end of the building is called Cosmetic Tower
(化粧櫓),where she dressed herself and made up to worship the shrine on the
hill nearby.

The long building built on the edge of the hill by making good use of
the natural features is very unique but it has some defensive functions like
gun or arrow holes. It is said rooms in Cosmetic Tower were beautifully
decorated. The lord's residence no longer exists, so the building is the
important thing which reminds us of Princess Sen.










西之丸環繞著姬路城
就像是妻子陪伴在丈夫的左右般

數不清的小房間
不難想像當時陪伴在千姬身邊
為數可觀的侍女們

看來不管是什麼時代
什麼樣的地方

許多人的服侍也代表一種尊貴身份象徵吧~






第二站: 石落し (武者落し)　いしおとし（むしゃおとし）Stone Throwing Hole

If enemies tried to scale the walls, defenders could drop stones or
boiling water, or throw spears or shoot guns through this hole. Similar
holes can be found throughout the castle - around the main tower, the arrow
storehouses,and in the bailey walls. The stone throwing holes of Himeji
Castle are said to be the finest in the history of Japanese Castle
architecture, combining a decorative appearance with a deadly function.
These holes are sometimes called "Fukuro-Hazama"(袋狹間) meaning "a narrow
place which is like a bag."








第三站: 千姬 Princess Sen (1597-1666)

Born the first daughter of Hidetada Tokugawa (德川秀忠), (who later
bacame the second Tokugawa Shogun),she was married at the age of 7 to
Hideyoshi Toyotomi's son Hideyori (豐田秀賴), and lived with him in
Osaka Castle until 1615 when Ieyasu Tokugawa crushed the Toyotomi family
and Hideyori committed suicide together with his mother.
Princess Sen was rescued, and she remarried Tadatoki Honda (本多忠刻),
son of Lord Tadamasa Honda.

These dolls here are reproduced on a painting owned by Gugyoji temple
(宏經寺) in Ibaragi Prefecture (芡城縣). The tray with smoking kits
(煙草盆) on it shows that she smoked, and she seems to be enjoying
life with her husband.







千姬
一生被操控的命運
似乎沒有可拒絕的選擇

慶幸自己身在當下
能有自己的想法
選擇自己的人生

也許命運不如自己所期待的方式在走


但總比當個會動的娃娃好














第四站: 仰望天守群 　天守群を仰いで　Magnificent View of the Main Tower
Complex

The Main Tower Complex has a beautiful combination of carved and straight
lines.
Two different factors-elegance and vigor make the complex more beautiful and
this is indeed Japanese.


編出號碼比較好理解!!!
1. 大天守 2. 乾小天守 3. 西小天守 4. ハの渡櫓
5. 魚虎 6. 唐破風 7. 千鳥破風 8. 懸魚
9. 方杖 10. 華燈窗 11. 武者窗 12. 格子窗
13. 狹間 14. 石落し

















第六站: 姥石 姥が石　Ubagaishi (Hand Milli Stone)

Hideyoshi Hashiba (later Hideyoshi Toyotomi) had difficulties in
colleting stones in building the castle. A poor woman, who made her
living by selling ricecakes, offered her own hand mill stone to the lord.
Hideyoshi was very pleased with her sacrifice and the story spread
all over the area. A lot of stones were donated, which made the
construction go very quickly.










第七站: 姬路城的變遷 History Outline of Himeji Castle

The citadel of Himeji was orginally founded on top of Mount Himeyama
on a smaller scale than it was later to become. When Hideyoshi Hashiba
(羽柴秀吉) was appointed to rule as feudal lord over the Harima and Tanba
districts the site was newly constructed as his administrative center
and these foundations are generally considered the origin of Himeji Castle.
Then again in the Edo Period during the Himeji castle was rebuilt on
a larger scale and included the surrounding areas in a new castle town.








第八站: 石棺 Stone Coffin

Due to the shortage of stones, stone coffins from the ancient tomb
on the hill, Himeyama (姬山) were used to build stone walls.
Even stone lanterns and stone monuments were used as the substitute
for ordinary stones.









第九站: 切腹丸 帶郭櫓(切腹丸) Sack Turret (Suicide Quarter)

It is also known as Suicide Quarter. It is not clear when this place
came to be called. There seems to be some stage setting for that.
The wooden floor in the building is similar to where suicide was
performed, the platform looks like the coroner's seat and the well
nearby resembles where swords and a severed head were washed.
But the building and the wall have gun and arrow holes. Besides, it is
very close to Lord's redidence. Therefore, it is a very important
defensive position.









第十站: 阿菊姑娘的水井 お菊井　Okiku Well

About 1500, Tessan Aoyama (清山鉄山), the chief retainer of
Norimoto Kotera (小寺則職)(Lord of Himeji Castle), plotted an intrigue
against the lordship. Kiku, who was the maidservant of the Aoyamas
as well as the lover of Motonobu Kinugasa (衣笠元信), a loyal retainer
of Lord Kotera, knew it and warned Motonobu (元信) of Lord's danger.

Then the plot failed. Aoyama (鉄山) and his follower Danshiro Chonotsubo
(浦上村宗)falsely charged her with losing one of valuable dishes, his
family treasure. At last they killed her and threw her body into this well.

From then her sad voice could be heard from the well every night,
counting one piece, two pieces, three pieces. Motonobu (元信) and some
retainers defeated Tessan (鉄山) and his followers. After she was
enshrined as Okiku Goddess (於菊大明神)in Junisho Shrine (12所神社),
no voice could be heard from the well.










天守閣中展示了相當多古老的文物
細細品味 帶著有種悠久的氣息

班駁的圖畫 厚重的盔甲 古時的遊戲器具

精緻的刻畫細節 不難發現當時對於細節的重視


















登上至高點
侍奉著神社

選擇用印章紀錄自己攀爬天守閣


幅員遼闊

視野極佳


防禦性的城堡
重視其視野清晰


掌握敵軍來向
下達確切的防禦攻擊策略



權傾天下的將軍

是以什麼樣的心情

俯瞰他所統治的土地呢??













平凡如我

猜測不出
也無法理解 明爭暗鬥的權力鬥爭




只能將問題再度讓其消失在歷史的洪流當中













感受歷史的一天

多了份對姬路城的理解



是旅行前的始料未及的收穫




更愛日本了

不只她的流行性

也愛她的歷史古蹟



(大心)




--
※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc) 
◆ From: 218.167.15.100
推 ckWade:你介紹姬路城很有趣呢 我也好想去
推 janhon:沒去借腳踏車阿 車站的婆婆英文超強..
→ odyssey505:謝謝一樓誇獎~~姬路城真的很有趣!!!
→ odyssey505:腳踏車阿...有考慮過..但是腿已經抬不動了XD
推 janhon:攻城很辛苦阿..爬到城下還要爬好幾樓
→ odyssey505:真的..我都傻眼了..爬的過程還得小心頭上的橫樑....