路線開發者 (王大濟) 關於這次事故的看法.
※ 轉錄自梅竹留言版, 註: 二齒代大濟貼出
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6464 關於龍洞墜落事件 2003/02/13(01:02)
關於龍洞墜落事件
This is an unfortunate incident although it could be avoided.
I sincerely hope Lin will be getting better soon and I also hope
that from now on, anyone should be careful whenever using
the bolted protections become necessary.
'Skin Friction" was among the oldest routes that I bolted 10 years ago.
Others are the nearby "Not 5.7", those around Long Alley
such as "Milky Boy", "Incomprehensible", "F-Fall",
and those scattered in the Entrance such as "Surprise", "Disco",
"Nowhere Man", and ""Those days when we were watching the sea"
-- just to name a few perhaps still-popular ones.
Please be aware of the "age" of those bolted routes
and therefore their weakness,
so you can understand the risk you are taking.
(Can the use of guide book help identify the age of bolts?)
Since I bolted most of the routes,
I have two things to say after this incident:
1) Please try not to lead-climb the bolted routes at Longdong.
Almost 9 out of 10 routes there can be rigged as TR systems,
that include those most difficult and interesting ones.
If you want to overcome the type of psychological barrier
which I would call "leading-fall fear", please do it at gym.
There is no point whatsoever to practice sport-leading skill
on those old, bolted routes if gyms can offer much safer and
efficient substitution. One important principle
underlying sport climbing is it eliminates safety considerations
so that climbers can exert their best or improve their physical
potential. However, safety has limits and it would be mistaken if
a climber push him/herself too much and goes beyond those limits.
2) It is about time for Taiwan's climbing community to develop a
set what I would call "bolting ethics" and "user rules".
Bolting ethics should deal with the issues as to whether or not to bolt,
or under what circumstances a certain type of bolt (and ears) should be
considered. On the other hand, user rules should stipulate
the obligations and discretion a bolt-user must be aware of.
The latter is not intended to delineate a boundary between the
responsibilities of the one who bolts and one who uses the bolt.
Rather, it is intended to help cultivate climbers' self-judgement
and cautions with bolt usage.
The point 2) could be tough,
but if we do not start today, it will not happen tomorrow.
If it will not happen tomorrow, it will forever not happen.
The likely consequence of that is reoccurrence of the tragedy
like Lin's or even worse. If that happens, it would be the entire
climbing community, not just individuals, to bear the cost.
We certainly do not want this to become a reality.
The set(s) of bolting ethics and user rules can be developed locally,
that is, to have each climbing area to have their own ethics and rules.
And I would expect that if one climbing area have indeed successfully
developed rules, others will follow. Hence a web of rules would be
established within a reasonable time spending just a little efforts.
Anyone who is interested in and willing to devote to
such "public goods", please try.
If anyone interested needs a 50-year old, 5.8 climber like me,
I will be in Taiwan next year and ready to contribute.
Ta-Chi
二齒 來自:210.85.179.9
--
「我們都很努力地讓我們的動作看起來很優美、更流暢、控制力更強，
在我們心中有一個理想的風格，成為我們追求的目標；
光是登頂是不夠的，要達到這種完美的境界才重要」。
--Francois Legrand ,1995, for mag.R&C
--
※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.csie.ntu.edu.tw)◆ From: 140.112.40.109
※ 編輯: waderu 來自: 140.112.40.109 (02/13 14:11)