[4] SLIDE CARE / TREATMENTS
[4.1] How should I apply slide oil/cream to the slide?
On Mon Mar 31 08:42:15 1997, Douglas Yeo <yeo@yeodoug.com> wrote
the following in the message entitled "slide cream":
...Most people use too much of anything - whatever it is.
After gooping up the stockings with junk, ANYTHING will cause
your slide to act like it's stuck in molasses. Use very little
of anything you want (very little means very little, as in an
amount as big as half of your little finger fingernail for BOTH
slide stockings), change it every day, and swab your slide
once a week and you'll probably have a slide that actually
works well. For the last few years, I've used Yamaha slide
cream and have used the same little tube for over 2 years.
Remember - very little means very little....
<HR>
On Tue Mar 18 08:54:49 1997, David Staines <DSS96@msn.com>
wrote the following in the message entitled "RE: Slide Grease?":
There are several reasons for using superslick. It does not gum
up as much as other creams that I have tried and it has no
fragrance that I can detect. A few years ago, I tried a slide
grease (I think it was Bach) that had an overwhelming scent
when it was initially applied. It also lasts for a long time.
A few sprits of water and you are ready to go.
To apply the superslick, I first wipe down the inner slides
completely with a damp rag. The lower ends of the stocks tend
to have built up layers of superslick which must be cleaned up
completely. If this is not done, the slide tends to drag about
4th position (conversely, if your slide is dragging about 4th
position, clean the end of the stocks, that usually takes care
of it). Once clean, I take a dime sized scoop of superslick
and rub it into my hand. Once I have a uniform layer of
superslick on my hand,I apply it to the slides by grasping
the inner slide and smearing it all over to get a nice even
coating. After this step, I wipe the stocks with a clean
cloth, and spray it with water. The end result is a nice
moving slide.
I have tried other slide creams and greases like Trombontine
and Slide-O-Mix. Slide-O-Mix works as well as Superslick, but
you need to start with a clean slide. It is a lot easier to
apply as well. Just a few drops of the small bottle, followed
by a few drops of the large bottle and your done. A little
mist from a water bottle and you are in business....
[4.2] What is the best lubricant to use on my slide?
For a very thorough description of Dr. Hugo Magliocco's experience
with various lubricants go to URL:
<http://www.ecnet.net/users/mfham/brass/tbnotes3.html>
<HR>
On Mon Mar 31 08:42:15 1997, Douglas Yeo <yeo@yeodoug.com> wrote
the following in the message entitled "slide cream":
...Ponds, slide-o-mix, trombotine, formula 3, pledge, you name
it. Personally it's all the same to me and I've been playing
trombone for 33 years and have used them all (except Pledge - I
can't stand the smell of the stuff). In the end I go back to
the cheapest stuff I can get my hands on because to me it all
works the same. And my slide is always great no matter what I
use....
[4.3] Do people really use Pledge Furniture Polish (TM) on their slides?
Yes. Usually the stuff in the pump bottles.
[4.4] Is Pledge Furniture Polish (TM) bad for my health?
On Mon Mar 31 12:35:09 1997, Tim Richardson
<trichard@osiris.cso.uiuc.edu> wrote the following in the message
entitled "re:pledge (fwd) DON'T USE IT (fwd)":
...I have obtained the MSDS's for Pledge, Lemon Pledge,
Pledge Aerosol Country Woods, and Spring Fresh Pledge
Pressurized Unit. I cannot post them to the list as they
come from a database that I have access to but not the right to
pass on.
However, I will summarize what is on them. All are basically
the same product. Water is 60 - 70 percent, propellants are
propane and butane, there can be 1 - 5 percent silicone, the
main ingredient appears to be isoparafinnic hydrocarbon
solvent, CAS 64475-85-0, with 10 - 20 percent. The Country
Woods has some parafin wax fume, CAS 8002-74-2 and some clay
treated microcrystalline wax, CAS 64742-42-3. I include the
CAS numbers (Chemical Abstract System) because common names
vary but these are definitive.
Now, for health hazard data. In all cases carcinogenicity
is listed as NO, for all three types (NTP, IARC, and OSHA).
For all but one there is no LD/LC 50 given (for the mixture).
The exception is Country Woods, which has a rat oral LD50 of
>20,000 mg/kg, which may mean they couldn't get enough in the
rat to kill him/her. Under control measures the statements
are:
Respiratory Protection: NO SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS UNDER
NORMAL USE CONDITIONS, Ventilation: GENERAL ROOM VENTILATION
ADEQUATE.
Of course the manufacturer is allowed (required, actually) to
come up with these sheets. So part of the decision is how
much distrust you have of big business, and how much of this
distrust is based on anything as opposed to knee jerk going
along with the crowd. I will say that having read some
thousands of these sheets and having a basis for comparison,
I personally would have no qualms at all about using Pledge.
You would not believe the really toxic chemicals that do get
put on these sheets - and yet with a little care in handling
no harm is done.
I would be very interested in how the Pledge stories got
started - may be irresponsible journalism, or maybe the story
is close but not quite right, like maybe carnauba wax has some
carcinogenic properties that petroleum waxes don't.
[4.5] How do I use Pledge Furniture Polish (TM) to lubricate the slide?
On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:49:34 -0600, Earl Needham
<needhame@3lefties.com> wrote the following in the message
entitled "re: APPLYING Pledge":
...As for applying it -- first, I think it's better to use the
pump bottle, not the aerosol. Then, just spray it on AFTER
applying your normal slide cream. It's REALLY slick, but you
ought to use it over something else. And only once after
applying slide cream, don't use it as a substitute for a water
bottle....
[4.6] What can I do to keep my slide in alignment and working freely?
<HR>
Trombone Instrument Care
<http://user.mc.net/~tptlube/page4.htm>
<HR>
Trombone Slide Alignment
<http://ic.net/~cmctuba/brass/Rep.17.html>
<HR>
See Dr. Hugo Magliocco's guide to instrument care and
handling at the following URL:
<http://www.ecnet.net/users/mfham/brass/tbnotes2.html>
<HR>
On Mon Mar 31 16:45:39 1997, Paul D. Kemp, Jr.
<paulbear@voy.net> wrote the following in the message
entitled "Re: Slide Cream and Basic common sense for slides":
I'd like to second Doug Yeo's comments about what to use on
your slide. In reality, there are many things that work well
as long as you don't use too much (except slide oil--that's
the first trombone lesson I give anybody--how to keep your
slide working great.) I would like to add one more important
thing. After getting your slide really clean, if you're
using a little bit of cream on each stocking and your slide
is still hanging up, alignment could very well be your
problem. It doesn't take much to knock a slide out of
alignment, and the most common culprit is the CASE. Here are
some simple thoughts to keep in mind (I have posted much of
this information to the list before, so you older listers
please be patient.):
1) Never sit on your case. Whether the slide is in the front
(right next to the handle) or in the back (next to the case
hinges), If you sit on your case, the weight of your body
will bend the tubes out of alignment.
2) Make sure that the slide compartment of your case is very
sturdy and rigid. If it's not, see about getting you case
fixed. If it's not repairable, invest in another case. It
is cheaper in the long run.
3) Never sit your trombone on a chair with the bell touching
the seat of the chair. All it takes is one whack and your
slide is out of commission. If you must sit your trombone
on the floor or lay it on a table, make sure that the
tuning slide, bell, and the mouthpiece are all 3 touching
the floor (table).
4) Invest in a trombone stand. The Hamilton is still a good
one (and the least expensive) and with reasonable care will
last a long time. Treat it like your American Express card
-- NEVER PLAY A SERVICE WITHOUT IT.
5) Never set your trombone down on the slide. Over time the
weight of the horn resting on the slide will bow the tubes.
6) The slide is composed of 4 tubes. In order for the slide to
work right, all 4 tubes must be:
a) straight
b) round (no dents)
c) the inner and outer tubes must be the same distance a
part
If any of these is not true, then eventually you will wear
the chrome off the inner tubes. The worse it is, the faster
it will wear.
7) If your slide feels rough when there is no lubrication, or
when it is lubricated it is rough, you may have oxidation
in the outer tubes. It doesn't take much to really slow
things down. Remember that on professional quality horn
the slide tolerances are pretty tight (.003 of an inch).
That's just as tight if not tighter than valve casings.
If anyone is interested, e-mail me privately and I'll
give you my formula for fixing the problem.
I wish that I could take credit for this knowledge, but over
the past 10 years I've seen John Upchurch a number of times
and I must give credit where credit is due. Take these
suggestions to heart and your slide will give you a lifetime
of reliable service.
One last thought:
If you have a brand new horn and the slide doesn't absolutely
fly right out of the case, it is very possible that your slide
was improperly assembled at the factory. Just because it is
all shiny and new DOES NOT mean that it was properly put
together. If the slide is properly assembled, there should
be no "break-in" period. There might be some dirt in the
outer slide tubes, but in time that will come out with
regular cleanings.
[4.7] Who can I contact about Teflon slide treatments?
On Tue Sep 10 19:38:00 1996, Matt Litwaitis <Mattlit@aol.com>
quoted Alan Charlesworth in the message entitled "Re: Teflon
treatment, Brian Martz...added information":
(NEED PERMISSION!!!!!!!!!)
...the first choice slide expertise should probably
remain:
Mr. John Upchurch
3712 Corinth Dr.
Gainesville, GA 30506
(404-535-1555)
John is the famous (ITA) "Slide Doctor", always striving
for better slide maintenance. My last communication with
him found his prevailing favorite slide Teflon to be the
products available from:
Mr. Rick Theis
58 Partridge Dr.
San Rafael, CA 94901
(415-567-4678)
...
[4.8] How do I apply Teflon treatments to the slide myself?
On Fri Aug 16 07:44:06 1996, Paul D. Kemp, Jr.
<paulbear@voy.net> wrote the following in the message
entitled "Re: Teflon Slide Treatment":
A Teflon treatment is easy to do yourself, and it really
works...
1) Make sure your slide is dent free and in good alignment.
2) Using a cloth or a paper towel on the end of a straight
cleaning rod, use either BRASSO or WRIGHT'S BRASS POLISH
(I prefer WRIGHT'S because it's water soluble) and polish
the inside of the outer tubes.
3) Using DAWN DISHWASHING DETERGENT, scrub the outer tubes and
dry them out.
4) Buy a bottle of Blue Coral's AUTOFOM from your local auto
parts store. Here in Chattanooga it's about $10. Apply
about a teaspoon or so to a rag and apply to the inside
of the outer tubes. They will probably come out black.
Work the AUTOFOM in to the metal until it becomes hot
(about 50 strokes or so) then let it dry for a few
minutes. Using a clean rag, remove the excess AUTOFOM
from the tubes.
5) Lubricate your slide with either SLIDE-O-MIX or Superslick
--The Superslick cream acts as cleaning agent. Apply a
small amount of the cream to the inner slide stockings and
work the inner and outer tubes together. You should notice
any noise to be either totally gone or greatly reduced.
Remove any excess cream from the inner slides and add
1 DROP per tube of the SUPERSLICK silicone treatment
from the little bottle. Rub the silicone in to the inner
slide tubes until the become hot, then spray them with
water.
6) Play on the slide for about 15-30 minutes, then wipe off
the inner slides. They will probably still come out black.
This is the SUPERSLICK cream continuing to remove the
oxidation. Repeat step 5 again. You'll find that each
time you clean your slide, providing you don't use too
much cream (particularly on Edwards slides, the tolerances
are super tight), your slide will continue to become
quieter and faster. Don't worry about the black coming
out of the slides: it will eventually come out clean.
You may need to use DAWN DISHWASHING DETERGENT to
expedite getting rid of the black stuff.
My first Teflon treatment lasted about 9 months!!! Best slide
I've ever had....
<HR>
On Tue, 28 Oct 1997 20:14:12 -0500 (EST), Matt Varho
<BassBonist@aol.com> wrote the following in the message
entitled "Re: Fix my slide.":
(NEED PERMISSION!!!!!!!!)
If your slide sticks you should take it to a good
brass repair shop. Continuous slide problems cannot be
corrected by trying to make it more "slipery".
The four tubes must be perfectly straight, free of dents,
and properly aligned.
--
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