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舊資料了，板上大大們可以多補充，有點長，寫得還蠻詳盡的
Technical Fabric Glossary
Need help figuring out what all of those techy terms
and functional fabric really mean?
by Peter Kray
Editorial From Couloir volume XIV, number 3, December 2001
Aeroflow Mesh: Fabric used by Mountain Hardwear in base layers, this
is a two-piece design with a dual-faced polyester mesh. Next to the
body, the inner microfiber mesh allows for visibly wide-open pore
ventilation to the jersey facing exterior layer. The fast-drying mesh
moves moisture away from the skin while the surface knit provides
wind protection. Also great for aerobic activities where it is used
as a shirt or shell.
All Weather: Sierra Design's proprietary name for its 3-layer laminate
outerwear that is manufactured with a 100 percent stretch nylon fabric
in the both the outer face and next-to-skin layer. The layers are
laminated to a breathable/waterproof polyurethane membrane with millions
of tiny pores that allow water vapor (i.e., sweat) to escape and
evaporate on the surface of the fabric, but are too small to allow
water droplets to penetrate the coat. The high stretch and recovery
properties of the coat due to the two stretch nylon layers allow Sierra
Designs to build a three-layer laminate that can be used in
close-fitting clothing.
Capilene: Patagonia's name for polyester with a hydrophilic surface
finish. Capilene's core remains hydrophobic (water hating).
Patagonia also adds an antimicrobial finish to Capilene to inhibit
the growth of odor-causing bacteria. Originally used in Patagonia-brand
thermal underwear and in stretch versions where it has been blended
with Lycra, it is now available from Patagonia in everything from
base layers to outerwear, this is a super soft, very warm material
most commonly used in long underwear.
Ceramic Fleece: Polyester with ceramic fiber mix for advanced heat
and breathing properties. The addition of ceramic particles in the
fleece helps to conduct body heat to the outside of the jacket by
virtue of its ability to create millions of precise, microscopic
pores that allow air moisture to escape from the fabric. The pores
are small enough that rain and snow is repelled from the garment
because there isn't enough space for it to leak in. Ceramic is also
a great conductor of heat, helping to collect and purge body heat
through the pores, while retaining warmth when the body becomes colder.
ComforTemp DCC: A variety of foam and fabric solutionsembedded with
ThermasorbR additives, which are thermal additives containing
proprietary phase change materials (PCMs). Microencapsulation allows
the PCMs to be embedded in the foams and fabrics the same way
time-release medication is manufactured for pharmaceuticals.
ComforTemp DCC products can be fabricated in different ways to retain
or exclude heat, bringing a more constant temperature to a variety of
applications. For cold weather, ComforTemp DCC foam and fabric
products retain body heat during periods of activity and release the
heat during periods of inactivity when the body is most in need of
warmth. Microspheres within each product have pre-set heat readings
according to the temperatures they are most likely to be used in.
When the body temperature exceeds that temperature, the microspheres
absorb heat. When the body dips below that temperature, the heat is
released. ComforTemp DCC products "recharge" naturally and
indefinitely. By Frisby Technologies.
CoolMax Mesh: Moisture-transporting channel-shaped yarns and the
loosely knit construction of this polyester Dacron mesh help move
accumulated perspiration quickly away to the exterior fabric where
it can be evaporated away. Like most materials here, CoolMax breathes,
wicking sweat away from the body to be evaporated. What's different is
the four-channel fabric construction it uses to do it. In CoolMax, the
channels are narrowed at the side to force water vapor into a central
channel and move it through the garment faster. CoolMax works best the
closer it is to the body because it moves moisture so quickly. By
DuPont.
Cordura?: The longstanding tough guy of the fabric world, CorduraR
is a very strong, super fine yarn fabric made of air-textured,
high-tenacity Nylon type 440 that meet specific strength, durability
and construction requirements. From the finest grades to the heaviest,
all CorduraR fabrics combine outstanding durability with lightness and
easy-care characteristics. CorduraR has a superior bulk to cotton and
standard Nylon and is unaffected by rot or mildew. It is also easily
cleaned and quick to dry and, depending on construction and treatment,
has a high level of water resistance. In skiing, Cordura is typically
used as a cuff guard to protect clothing where it might get ripped by
ski edges or bindings. For increased water, tear or abrasion resistance,
Cordura is now also being mixed with Acrylic, Lycra, Supplex and Taslan.
Dermizax?: A 2- or 3-layer laminate "smart" fabric that reacts to both
heat and moisture buildup. As it heats up, it becomes more breathable.
The threshold temperature at which it becomes more breathable can be
adjusted during fabric development, but not once it is produced. In
construction, a monolithic membrane is laminated between two layers of
fabric to allow vapor to escape rapidly and evaporate while it keeps
water from seeping in. As the temperature rises, the membrane's polymer
molecules move more rapidly, expanding the inner-molecular openings to
accelerate the fabric's permeability. As the temperature drops, the
fabric closes down again for better insulation. By Toray Industries.
Down: Down is the soft shaftless undercoating from a duck or goose.
Each cluster has thousands of fibers growing out of a central point
that create thousands of air pockets that provide insulation by trapping
warm air. The quality of down is indicated by its "fill" power, or the
amount of space that an ounce of down will fill. Higher fill means
higher loft. This means that more air will be trapped, which in turn
will result in a higher insulation value. The insulation value of down
is calculated by compressing 1 ounce of down and measuring it in cubic
centimeters. Low down rating might read like 450 or 550 fill power,
while the highest rated commercially available down would be 750+.
Some down experts, like the folks at Feathered Friends, can provide
pure down capable of filling more than 800 cubic inches of space upon
request for you feather aficionados. For general use, most down is a
by-product of geese raised for food, and so comes from young undeveloped
birds. According to Feathered Friends, only breeder birds kept alive
from year to year provide mature, fully developed down. Down becomes
stronger and loftier as geese mature, increasing its volume to weight
ratio as the down clusters increase in size. This constitutes only a
tiny percentage of the down available, and so demands a higher price
because of its limited quantities.
DriClime?: A Marmot exclusive, this base layer is based on a
bi-component knit. A bi-component knit (also known as a denier
gradient knit) uses two different sizes of yarns: larger yarns next
to the skin and smaller, finer yarns on the outside. Moisture moves
to areas of greater surface area. Smaller fibers have a greater
surface area. Hence the term, "mechanically wicking." DriClime
mechanically move moisture away from the skin and spreads it widely
across the surface area of the fabric where it can evaporate more
quickly. Because the fabric is wicking moisture away from the body,
it stays dry and warm next to the skin. Available for three different
activity levels in a light, midweight and Power Stretch as well as
gloves linings, jacket linings and the Marmot DriClime Windshirt series.
DryStorm XTH: This is the 3-layer Ripstop and nylon shell material
used by Jagged Edge in the company's Telluride Mountain Series. In
the three layers, two layers of resin next to the skin have inner
molecular spaces between the polymer fibers that actively wick water
vapor away from the skin to the surface of the garment. The micropores
of the hydrophobic outer layer are too small to allow larger drops of
rain and snow water to penetrate the clothing. Jagged Edge also uses
Drystorm XTH Stretch material in key areas of the clothing like the
knees on the pants or elbows and shoulders of the jacket to provide
elasticity and ease of movement.
DRYtech: A proprietary Mammut laminate made of woven material from
Schoeller and waterproof materials from DuPont. The Schoeller material
is laminated to a durable Supplex material via a highly breathable
membrane that provides durable water and windproofing. The result is
a durable wind and waterproof laminate that draws moisture away from
the interior of the garment based on body temperature with the help
of the inner layer, a woven blend of Nylon, Lycra, Cordura and Coolmax
of Schoeller construction.
EPIC? by Nextec: Literally, this is Encapsulated Protection Inside
Clothing. Instead of coating the finished fabric, the process
encapsulates each individual fiber with an ulta-thin polymer film and
then bonds them together. Then a breathable barrier is placed between
the fiber bundles. The encapsulated fibers virtually eliminate wetness
as they cannot collect water inside their little bundle, and instead
push it back to the surface of the garment to evaporate. Because the
fibers are encapsulated, they also resist wind and stay flexible as
the process works inside of the fabric rather than over it.
eVENT?: eVent? fabric is a Direct Venting? waterproof barrier with
incredible moisture management properties that bypass the need for a
garment to be fairly wet before it starts to remove moisture. At the
core is an ePTFE (expanded Polytetrafluoroethylene) membrane. The
expanded PTFE film used to make eVENT can't be used in raw form for
waterproofing because body oils, sweat and suntan oil contaminate the
material. The oils provide channels for water to travel, making the
material less waterproof. To use ePTFE for waterproofing, it needs to
be rendered oil-repellant. Traditionally, this was accomplished by
putting a thin, continuous layer of polyurethane over the surface of
the ePTFE. This compromises the inherent breathability by covering
the open-pore structure and makes the Polyurethane, which absorbs and
retains moisture, damp and clammy. Instead, eVENT has a patented
method of rendering ePTFE oil-repellant with a molecular surface
treatment of the individual fibrils that comprise the open-pore
structure of the material. With this proprietary system - called Dry
System technology - the moisture vapor you produce is not required
to condense into liquid to escape the fabric. Instead, it is allowed
to vent directly to the outside without first making the inside of
the garment damp and clammy. By BHA Technologies.
Fleece: Co-opted from the original textile industry when wool was
the only fleece and cotton was a base layer, this is now the end-all
term for many of the vests, insulation layers and even soft shells
made of a fabric with a deep, soft pile. Typically a brushed, knitted,
polyester fiber, fleece can also be constructed with nylon, lycra or
even cotton, and sometimes uses a ceramic blend for wicking purposes.
Gore-Tex?: The Gore-TexR membrane was revolutionary because it was
the first working synthetic-based apparel system really designed to
form an effective barrier against wind and water while maintaining
breathability. In the construction, the patented membrane is typically
laminated to a nylon or polyester face fabric as a 2-ply laminate.
An inner garment lining, either a mesh or taffeta, is required in a 2L
construction. Otherwise, the exposed Gore-Tex membrane would be easily
contaminated from the inside of the garment. 2 layer construction is
chosen for alpine skiers because it is a quieter fabric, drapes better
and is softer. The disadvantage is that 2 layer construction is usually
heavier because of the required lining and slower to dry when wet.
There is also a "3-ply laminate" that uses laminated hydrophilic lining
layer to wick water into the fabric where it evaporates as body heat
rises. That, combined with the fact that water molecules can never
penetrate the outer layer, are what made this construction accepted
worldwide as the leader in action sports apparel technology. Gore-TexR
2 Layer Fabric is the brand name of the original product - now more
than 20 years old - while Gore-TexR 3 Layer Fabric is a more durable,
higher abrasion resistant, slightly less breathable version intended
for winter conditions, extended use, and alpine mountaineering.
Gore Activent?: Membrane laminated to various fabrics for windproofing
breathability. This membrane breathes better than most other Gore
products but at the expense of being less waterproof. Instead, it is
water resistant, meaning that because of un-taped seams and larger
pores in the fabric,there is more room for water vapor to escape from
the garment, but also more room for water molecules to be pushed into
the garment in heavy weather.
Gore-Tex DryLoft?: Insulation helper. A tear-resistant combination of
fabric and Gore laminate allows perspiration to escape and helps prevent
down insulation from becoming wet from outside elements. Developed
specifically for sleeping bags, this material is much more vapor
permeable than Gore-Tex fabric. Overall, a much drier insulation is
the result, mainly due to reduced condensation in the insulation, be
it down or synthetic. Other advantages are that DryLoft is lighter,
more supple, and quieter than its Gore-Tex equivalent.
Gore-Tex XCR: Extended Comfort Range. This heavier duty version of
Gore-Tex is more breathable due to an expanded polytetrafluoroethylene
membrane and new lamination techniques. XCR is much more breathable
in its two-layer form than traditional Gore-Tex, and nearly twice as
breathable in its three-layer form than traditional Gore-Tex. The new
XCR membrane is laminated between an outer face fabric and an inner
mesh knit. Because the inner mesh is part of the fabric, there's no
separate hanging liner. This equals less heat build-up, less bulk when
layering, fast drying time and a significant savings in weight. This is
the hardshell material of choice for the majority of the top clothing
companies, including Marmot, The North Face, Mountain Hardwear and
Arc'teryx.
Gore-TexXCR Stretch: A combination of a nylon Lycra knit and the
Gore-Tex XCR laminate. Together they form a breathable and more
stretchable fabric. This is basically the same shell material but
because of the Lycra it is designed give the fabric more stretch
mobility than traditional shells to fit skiers who want a greater
range of motion.
H2No Storm HB ?: Patagonia's proprietary waterproof, breathable
monolithic membrane that comes as a three-layer laminate that can
be used with almost any fabric, such as nylon or polyester. Primary
uses are waterproof, breathable outerwear pieces. Using Toray's Entrant
technology, H2No has a waterproof, microporous coating inside the liner
which is paired with water-repellent finish (Deluge DWR) on the outside
of the shell.
High Density Taffeta: A 100% polyester filament plain weave fabric.
It was developed to provide long lasting barrier protection for fluid,
bacteria, and particle penetration. Used as an outer layer on garments.
MemBrain: a proprietary Marmot waterproof/breathable family of
performance fabrics. They are an exclusive, hydophilic, monolithic PU
film application on a variety of fabrics, with the breathability and
waterproofness of classic Gore-Tex, but with the highest water
repellency rating in the industry: 80/100 (see DWR above). Available
in a variety of fabrics, including stretch. Used in gloves, sleeping
bags, bivy sacks, and outerwear.
MicroShed?: Exclusive Solstice waterproof/breathable shell material
for more than a decade now. Microporous polyurethane is enhanced with
microscopic ceramic particles and applied in thin layers to the inside
of a face fabric. The porous ceramic particles increase breathability
in the microporous polyurethane by creating tiny holes that let moisture
vapor escape but don't let water enter. Additionally, the particles
add strength and surface toughness to the polyurethane, in high abrasion
areas under pack straps or at the seat and knees. Microshed will not
"bubble-up" or delaminate under normal use because of the strong bond
between coating and fabric. The inside and outside surface of Microshed
fabric, as well as individual yarn strands, are treated with a DWR
product that repels water.
Nylon ripstop Conduit? SL: Used by Mountain Hardwear, this is a soft,
windproof, waterproof, breathable 2- or 3-ply fabric construction that
allows body moisture vapor to escape while protecting insulation from
incidental exterior moisture. Both utilize the Conduit membrane, a
hydrophilic and hydrophobic combination of molecules that work in
combination to draw moisture away from the body. The process actually
accelerates as the moisture content rises inside the garment. The
membrane is positioned between a tightly woven, lightweight nylon
ripstop with its visually recognizable grid-like pattern that prohibits
rips and tears from increasing in size, creating an intricate "fence"
effect. With a 50 denier fabric, it provides a combination of
durability, softness of hand, and light weight.
Outlast?: Fibers, fabrics and foams that work as "thermal shock
absorbers" by slowing your personal rate of temperature change.
Outlast helps maintain your thermal equilibrium with Phase Change
Materials (PCMs) that provide thermal regulation rather than thermal
insulation. The PCMs are held in billions of micro-capsules that can
be incorporated into variety of materials. Phase change refers to the
process of going from one physical state to another - i.e. from a solid
to a liquid. Outlast PCMs are substances that are calibrated to
stabilize in a "slush" state (half liquid, half solid) within a
specified performance range that is a few degrees below your normal,
comfortable skin temperature. As your activity level increases, the
solid component of the Outlast "slush" absorbs excess heat generated
by your body. This keeps you cooler and extends the period of time
before you start sweating. When you cool down, the PCMs change back
from a liquid to a solid and the energy that was absorbed by while
you were active is returned. Outlast fibers contain micro-capsules
filled with PCMs right inside individual synthetic fiber strands that
can be woven and knit into fabrics for use in base layers such as
thermal underwear, socks and gloveliners. By Outlast Technologies.
P.E.F.: Performance Enhancing Film. Patagonia-proprietary windproof
and breathable monolithic film sandwiched inside fleece garments
eliminates the need for a shell in windy conditions. This is a three-
layer sandwich of fleece, Capilene-treated fabric, with P.E.F.
(Performance Enhancing Film) between. Although not waterproof, it is
very breathable.
Polarguard 3D?: Polarguard is a continuous filament of polyester with
a hollow core for increased insulation. Because the filament is
continuous it keeps from pulling apart, has superior loft and doesn't
separate or mat even when it's cold. Traditionally used as a synthetic
fill for sleeping bags, its warmth is legendary. As Polarguard 3D, the
filament denier has been decreased by 40 percent, so that the new
insulation material is just as durable, only softer and more
compressible, which also makes this a more attractive material for
use in clothing. The finer denier and hollow core also results in
less weight for the same loft. Made of 100% polyester, Polarguard 3D
absorbs little moisture and retains loft even if wet and over a long
period of time.
PolartecR 100, 200, 300 Series: From Malden Mills, the kings of fleece,
the 100, 200 and 300 Series fabrics are the reference standard for
insulation fleece. In all of these products, the 100 percent brushed
polyester velour construction creates air pockets that trap air and
retain body heat while still retaining a breathability that does not
restrict the movement of moisture vapor. The fabrics are available in
a range of weights for manufacturers and end-users (i.e., You!) to find
the right level of insulation for outdoor activities. 100 weight fleece
are the lightest, provide lightweight warmth with next-to-skin comfort
and moisture management. The 300 weight fleece are the heaviest and
provide a warm thermal layer for very cold activities. The fabrics
breath, resist odor-causing bacteria with an anti-microbial finish,
and are non-pilling. They can also be manufactured as either single or
double-face fleece constructions for more insulation, and with
waterproof, windproof and stretch components for more specific
usage.
PolartecR 200, 300 BiPolar Series: Malden Mills fleece manufactured
with a durable low-velour outer layer for weather protection and a
lofty shearling inner layer that traps heat, providing thermal
insulation. The outer surface sheds water and snow, dries quickly,
and resists wind.
Polartec Power Dry?: Patented bipolar construction with a soft inner
layer that rapidly wicks moisture away from the body and a durable
outer layer that spreads moisture for maximum evaporation. The brushed
inner surface creates many "touch points" that are hydrophilic to wick
sweat into the fabric and away from the skin. When the sweat reaches
the outside of the fabric it spreads out and dries two times faster
than cotton. Overall, Power Dry moves at least 30 percent more moisture
away from the skin than other fleece products.
Polartec Power Shield: Polartec soft shells technology. These are
fleece garments that feature a tightly woven nylon face for abrasion
resistance with a polyester velour back that traps air and provides
high warmth-to-weight ratio. Polartec ACT blocks 98 percent of the
wind and allows the remaining 2 percent to circulate in the garment
and speed water vapor transmission. All Power Shield fabrics have DWR.
Spandex versions offer 4-way stretch for unrestricted freedom of
movement. These garments are designed to replace traditional fleece
and PTFE shell systems for most outdoor clothing applications, thereby
reducing the number of layers needed to insulate and protect your body
from the elements.
PolartecR Power StretchR: Malden Mills fleece with body-hugging
four-way stretch with moisture management with two separate surfaces.
The durable, non-pilling nylon outer surface resists abrasion, and the
next-to-skin inner surface of soft velour pile wicks perspiration,
keeping you dry. Power Stretch is available in either a more breathable
or a more waterproof version. The first version wicks sweat away from
the skin to keep you dry from the inside. The second is treated with a
DWR to keep you dry from the outside.
PolartecR WindblocR Series: Made by Malden Mills, these combine the
maximum warmth of Polartec fleece with a windproof/water-resistant
polyurethane barrier membrane that allows moisture vapor transmission
and is completely wind and waterproof. breathable layer. Windbloc
fabrics are engineered to minimize heat loss from exposure to wind and
water, and to provide quiet performance and a non-restrictive feel.
Also available as Windbloc ACT (Air Control Technology), that blocks 98
percent of the wind and allows the remaining 2 percent to circulate
inside the fabric to speed up moisture transmission. ACT also has a
breathable stretch-polyurethane membrane constructed with DWR to shed
rain and snow.
Polartec Thermal Pro: The most durable of the Polartec Thermal fabrics.
The 100 percent polyester proprietary fibers and low-pile velour,
pebbled, or shearling surface create a fabric that is at least 30 times
more durable than bargain fleece. These offer excellent breathability
and insulation and are often treated with a DWR finish.
Precip? Technology: Marmot's proprietary PU coating waterproof/
breathable technology especially used for unlined garments. Combines
hydrophobic and hydrophilic Polyurethane in a controlled microporous
coating for waterproof performance and high breathability. The key to
Precip is its barrier technology where the Polyurethane is impregnated
with silicon dioxide particles. These particles create innumerable
small, extremely consistent pores that allow water vapor molecules to
pass out of the fabric while not letting larger liquid ones in. The
silicon acts to keep the pores consistent for consistent moisture
transport away from the skin. But it's greatly aided by a silk protein
"top coat" called Dry Touch, that Marmot puts next to the skin. Dry
Touch is hydrophilic, meaning that it likes water and actually absorbs
bits of it away from the skin so that it can be transported to the
outer layer.
Primaloft One?: A polyester microfiber insulation developed for the
U.S. Army as a durable, field-appropriate synthetic alternative to
down. Primaloft mocrofiber yarns are nearly identical to the size and
shape of down plumules, which results in the synthetic having nearly
identical insulating properties as down when dry, and even better
insulating properties when wet. Highly compressible, lightweight,
durable and highly water repellent, it is best suited for gloves,
midlayers and back-up, in-the-pack parkas. Because its individual
microscopic fibers are water hating, Primaloft retains much of its
ability to keep you warm, even when your jacket is soaking. While
other synthetic insulations can lose as much as 60 percent of their
thermal retention when wet, Primaloft loses little of its insulating
ability when wet. The material is clustered to feel and hang like down
inside of a jacket where its plush pile mimics down's thermal properties
of heat storage. It is very compressible for packing away and
lightweight. Also unlike down, the synthetic fibers retain their
loft and are more resilient than feathers, so when you pull a Primaloft
jacket out of the pack with just a shake it's fluffy again. By Albany
International Corp.
PTFE: Short for polytetrafluoroethylene, this product was first marketed
as Teflon. This non-hydrophilic laminate gives superior waterproof
performance while achieving high breathability compared to other
waterproof/breathable coated or laminated fabric. In a breathable,
waterproof fabric the PTFE membrane is the central component. With
microscopic-sized holes, the PTFE allows water vapor to pass through
the barrier, but blocks liquid water droplets from finding a way in.
As a pellet, powder or resin this ubiquitous material can be used for
everything from engine gaskets, to reducing dust levels or impregnating
metal sheeting. By DuPont.
RegulatorR: Made exclusively for Patagonia by Malden Mills, the
Regulator R1, R2, and R3 fleece fabrics can be used together or
individually as part of a layered storm system. The Regulator R1 base
layer fabric is the lightest with open channels of fleece that allow
easier sweat evaporation by wicking and channeling moisture to the
outside of the fabric, a smooth jersey knit where sweat is spread over
a wide surface area. The smooth surface also decreases the friction
between clothes. Fleece pillars increase the overall fabric thickness
for insulation. The R2 product is more like a sweater or insulation
layer and is the most versatile of the pieces. It achieves high loft
with low-density fabrics, and a high-loft pile face. It is light, with
an open fleece stitch and silky sheen that makes it soft and
compressible. The Regulator R3 is the thickest of the Regulator fabrics
and has a smooth velour microfleece outer surface. It's much denser
than the furry pile of the R2 with good wind resistance and can be worn
as an outer layer provided you're ready to cover it with a hardshell
if it gets wet or especially windy.
Schoeller Dryskin Extreme?: A woven blend of nylon, Cordura, Lycra and
Coolmax. It is a heavier stretch woven fabric with the added benefit of
the Coolmax interior that wicks moisture away from the body. It also
blocks moisture from coming in, because the fabrics are hydrophobic,
therefore preventing water absorption. Furthermore, if there is a
temperature gradient, the natural flow of vapor will be from warm to
cold. So a warm body inside a Schoeller shell will drive moisture out,
and the hydrophobic nature of the fabrics will further prevent any
absorption of water meaning that as long as the wearer is active, they
will stay dry. Because it is not a laminate, the size of the pores is
much larger than any of the hardshell laminates and it has superior
breathability over laminate waterproof/breathable fabrics.
Schoeller Dynamic?: A woven blend of Nylon and Lycra that is
lightweight, permanently elastic, wind, water and abrasion resistant,
breathable and easy to care for. This has many of the same qualities
of Dryskin Extreme but without the added wicking ability of Coolmax.
Light and versatile.
Soft Shell: An vague but trendy industry term used to describe a woven
or knit fabric outer layer jacket that, generally, is wind proof and
highly breathable, but not seam-sealed or water proof. It is most often
constructed of stretch fabric, intended for active aerobic use.
Versatile, intended to be worn all-day through all stages of a ski
tour (up and down). Not intended to replace a "hard shell" in severe
weather. Soft shell is a work-in-progress, re-defining common notions
of dressing layers and systems.
Spandura?: The yarn or a product made from the yarn where Cordura
filaments are arranged around a Lycra core. The emphasis is on the
abrasion resistance of Cordura as it makes up about 97 percent of the
mix. This means Spandura is tough. That little 3 percent of Lycra gives
the product a more natural look and much better flex. It's also quick
to dry and wind resistant. Often used in making pants.
3xDRY?: Schoeller fabric is a combination of hydrophobic finish on
the outside and highly hydrophilic finish on the inside. It gives a
maximum drying effect to pick up moisture on the inside of the fabric
and disperses it out to a large area to quickly evaporate during
activity.
Supplex?: Woven fabrics made of the same-name DuPont air textured,
nylon, multi-filament yarn. Supplex looks and feels like cotton, but
has the lightweight, fast-drying, breathable, wind, water and tear
resistant properties of nylon. Can be blended with other materials
like Lycra for uniform stretch and recovery with a soft inner surface
for added loft and a super soft hand. Supplex is credited with
transforming the notion of "stiff" and "noisy" with all nylon
fabrics
Sympatex?: Windproof, waterproof, breathable modified fabric made
out of nonporous polyester. It is also produced as a nonporous
membrane of hydrophilic film that can be laminated onto another
fabric. Sympatex comes as three-ply laminates, linings, and inserts
for outerwear, footwear, gloves, and other accessories. Since it is
a solid, non-porous film, Sympatex is impervious to water. What makes
Sympatex unique are the hydrophilic (water-loving) molecular zones that
have been built into the membrane. When perspiration takes place on the
inside of a garment, it begins to evaporate. Since the temperature and
humidity inside an article of clothing are higher than on the outside,
there is a driving force from the inside to the outside. The
free-floating moisture vapor molecules from perspiration are driven
through the hydrophilic zones in the Sympatex membrane to the outside
of the garment where they can evaporate, leaving the inside dry and
comfortable. Available as Elastic, for stretch, as Transactive, for
two and three-layer construction, and as Windliner for windproof
breathability. By Sympatex Technologies.
Synthetic Fibers: Fibers created from man-made polymers. This includes
the majority of products and definitions in this review as science
continues to contribute to the comfort of the backcountry skier.
The noticeable exceptions are silk, wool, the natural properties of
which continue to benefit from new weaves and synthetics like those
incorporated in the Ibex line, and the whipping boy of high-tech
winter apparel: cotton.
Taslan?: This is a DuPont trademark for the air texturizing and
bulking process on synthetic/thermoplastic yarns. Yarns that have
undergone this process are said to have been TASLANIZED. Also applies
to a fabric woven from these air-textured yarns.
Tactel HT?: Lightweight, high-tenacity nylon yarn that is unbelievably
abrasion-resistant. Originally developed by DuPont to meet the
performance needs of parachutes and hot air balloons, it only recently
found its way into the ski apparel arena. A bomber strength to weight
ratio, it also shows off the luster of a coat well.
ThermaStat?: Hollow core polyester that has fast wicking vapor
transporting characteristics. Typically used in long underwear, socks
and gloves. By DuPont.
Thermolite?: Hollow-core Dacron fibers trap warm air in the material
as an insulation layer. DuPont literally invented the Dacron hollow-core fiber after finding the same structure in the fur of polar bears. This material creates high-loft insulation in jackets because of the trapped air and dries faster
than most other insulating products because of the larger surface area of the fibers that spread the moisture out for faster evaporation. Thermolite beat cotton to the dry in tests by more than 50 percent. Typically used in base layers
, turtlenecks, fleece and sweaters, as well as hats, gloves and outerwear lining.
Thinsulate?: One of the original super thin, super warm insulation
materials, Thinsulate was developed in the late 1960s and has been
constantly refined since then. It is a blend of superfine olefine and
polyester fibers as much as 10 times smaller than those in other
synthetic insulations. Because they are so small, more can be packed
into the same space where by sheer number they can be more efficient
at trapping warm air that makes for more efficient insulation.
Thinsulate stays dry in wet conditions because it also absorbs less
than 1 percent of its weight in water. It is available in a number
of different insulation weights for a variety of activities, starting
at 40 grams for aerobic activities, 70 grams for moderate cold, 100
grams for very cold and 150 gram insulation for cold conditions where
the wearer is generating a minimal amount of body heat on his own.
Available in Lite Loft, Ultra and Flex insulations. By 3M.
Triple Point Ceramic?: Used by Lowe Alpine, this hardshell material
manufacturing process involves multiple high-pressure coatings and
introduction of ceramic particles for breathability and durability.
Polyurethane coatings are applied directly to the face, outer polyester
or nylon fabrics of the garment, leaving no air pockets where moisture
can be trapped. The coating introduces a ceramic bead which when
rinsed, leaves behind millions of microscopic pores that allow air
moisture to escape and keep water molecules from creeping in. In
addition, a Dry Yarn layer where DWR is applied at the yarn and fabric
level for integrated water repellency, is stitched into the garment.
Third (it's Triplepoint, remember?) an additional Advanced Internal
Moisture Management System (AIMMS) is achieved by adding an additional
ceramic particle that catalyzes the movement of water at the molecular
level through the fabric. As far as breathability goes, this allows
water molecules to be transported to the surface of the fabric via the
ceramic particle along with body heat and pressure.
Underarm Zippers/Pit Zips: If you know what 4-55 air conditioning is
in a car (i.e., roll down all four windows and drive 55 mph) then you
understand pit zips. By putting a zipper under each armpit on a jacket,
manufacturers basically let you roll the windows down for maximum
ventilation. An especially valuable feature in slower breathing
hardshells, this is also available in many soft shell designs and is
the last step in breathability before you actually take the coat off.
Velcro?: Invented when one of NASA's rocket scientists working on
putting a man on the moon happened to look down and notice how well
thistles and weeds seemed to grab hold of his knits, especially his
socks. The hook of the weed fit the loop of the weave. So why couldn't
a material do that? Velcro Corp. is built on that premise, making nylon
fastening tape where a hook fabric grips a pile loop at a point on a
cuff or jacket fronts where manufacturers want to reinforce a zipper
line or don't want to use a snap, allowing a sleeve or zipper to be
closed by matching one nylon pile fabric to another.
Waterproof: Prevents the transfer of moisture via specially developed
films and membranes with pores that are too small for water molecules
to pass through them as well as taped seams that provide an
impenetrable barrier to moisture transfer.
Water-resistant: Not completely waterproof. Pertaining to fabrics that
because of inherent hydrophobic properties or water barriers made of
films or membranes are able to shed light snow and rain. In an effort
to improve breathability with larger membrane pores and by eliminating
taped seams, however, these fabrics are not completely waterproof and
can wet out in heavy weather.
Wicking: Process by which moisture is transported away from the body
in a fabric. Typically, this means that a hydrophilic layer next to the
skin must attract the sweat and begin passing that moisture through the
membrane or fabric of the garment to the exterior where it can be
evaporated. Otherwise the sweat must be pushed into the garment by
body heat before it is transported and evaporated.
Xalt - Xtreme Allweather Laminate Technology: High tech composite
system that combines fabric and laminate technology for waterproof,
breathable, windproof protection. A composite of synthetic materials
is used to laminate a waterproof-breathable film to TacTel nylon to
combine a very breathable system with the properties of a windproof
and waterproof shell. A Durepel coating enhances the inherently
waterproof fabric with a stain resistant finish. By Burlington
Performance Fabrics.
X-Static?: Silver-enriched fiber that naturally enhances
anti-microbial performance in a fabric to keep the garment from
getting stinky. Silver has natural anti-bacterial attributes that are
structure specific. Any bacteria, virus, fungi, or protozoa lacking a
sufficiently protective cell wall has no defense against silver.
X-Static can be manufactured as everything from a microfiber to a
full-blown fabric. By Nobel Fiber Technologies.
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