以下轉載自網頁
http://www.cc.nctu.edu.tw/~mclub/meichu/project/yuji/yuji2002.html
亞洲攀岩巨星Yuji Hirayama的新紀錄!
繼拿下2000年世界盃攀岩賽年度總冠軍及創下On-sight 5.14a的紀錄後，現年33歲的
攀岩巨星Yuji Hirayama再度創下攀岩史上的兩項新紀錄－以最快速度攀上美國優盛美地
酋長岩(Yosemite： El Capitan)的兩條困難路線：Salathe(5.13b)及Nose(5.13c)。
一、 Salathe Wall：
早在1997年，Yuji即曾創下以On-Sight及自由攀登Salathe的世界紀錄。這條長870米、
35個繩距(pitch)的困難路線，最早是由Robbins、Pratt、Frost三人於1961年以人工攀登
方式首登，自由攀登的首攀則是Todd Skinner及Paul Pinna。
今年8月，美國好手Tommy Caldwell在斷指復出後(Tommy於2001年因蓋岩場時不甚使用電
鋸而鋸斷中指)創下了19.5小時攀登Salathe的紀錄，不料就在一個多月後新紀錄再度被
Yuji所刷清。Yuji僅花了13個小時就順利完攀，整整比Tommy少了6.5個小時。
二、 The Nose：
在創下Salath的新紀錄後，Yuji的雄心並未因此而滿足，幾天後接著創下以最快速度爬上
The Nose的紀錄。The Nose是在Salath隔壁的另一條困難路線，高870米、31個繩距、難
度5.13c。最早自由攀登的首攀者是Lynn Hill(1993年)，最快攀登紀錄則是由Potter及
O’Neill於去年所創下的03:24:30。9月29日上午7:15，Yuji與兩屆X-Games速度賽冠軍
美國好手Hans Florine創下了02:48:55的世界紀錄。
這是Hans第46次攀上Nose，但為了協助好友創新紀錄，這次是由Yuji先鋒、Hans隨後。
三、 後記
繼美國Chris Shama創下5.15a首攀、法國Alexandre Chabot創下世界盃五連霸紀錄後，
愈來愈多全球各地的攀岩好手正積極向突破這些紀錄而努力！全球首攀最多5.14路線的美
國好手Dave Ghram正待在法國Ceuse，試圖成為Realisation的第二位完攀者；英國的
Steve Maclure及德國好的Christian Binderhammer皆已成功On-sight 5.14a；
韓國好手Son Sang-Won則創下韓國攀岩史上的紀錄，爬上Biography (5.14c)，
即Realisation的下半段。這些紀錄無疑將成為攀岩運動發展的動力與目標，就讓我們一
起期待下一個未知的新紀錄吧！
以德 筆 2002/10/05
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㊣Origin:《 成大計中 BBS 站 》[bbs.ncku.edu.tw] 來源:[140.116.32.18]
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------- <
http://www.speedclimb.com/
Nose Record Completely Smashed!
Posted on: September 30, 2002
Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama race up the Nose on El Capitain in 2 hours,
48 minutes, and 55 seconds!
It was inevitable that the Nose record would be broken,
but could anyone conceive that an already unbelievable time of 3:24:04
(O'Neill/Potter) would be completely smashed. Well, on September 29,
Hans and Yuji did it.
Hans writes, "Yuji led the whole route.
We simulclimbed about 2450 ft and I jugged while Yuji
short-fixed/self-belayed for about 500 ft.
We exchanged gear at the 6th pitch, (leaving Sickle), at the 17th pitch,
( King Swing), at the 21st pitch, (Great Roof), at the 25th and 27th pitch,
(Camp 5 and 6).
We started at 7:15 am and topped out at 10:03 am.
It was a bit cold at the start,
my hands barely staying warm enough to feel the pin scars on the first
three pitches.
After that it was perfect temperatures.
I was gasping for breath as we entered into the Stove Legs at the 7th pitch.
Luckily I had a minute
rest there as I waited for Yuji to get more than two pieces between us.
From there up I managed to keep from going anarobic,
til the last 100 ft.- where I pushed hard knowing I could colapse on top,
- which I did.
We carried one #3 camalot, one #2, two #1s, one.75, one .5,
and doubles below that. 6 nuts, one cam hook, one etrier,
17 quick draws, 18 free biners, 6 long
runners, one Powergel each, one liter water each,
one 10Oz can UpTime drink, a Gri gri,
a couple lockers, Petzl jugs, set of JJs,(jugging loops), shorts,
one dress shirt, one t-shirt.
BOY IT WAS FUN! and rewarding!"