from  http://www.883.com.tw/twe23/forum/viewtopic.php?t=845

RIVER CROSSINGS
渡河


As in general mountaineering, the mountain rescuer may occasionally have to cros
s a swiftly flowing stream, knee to thigh deep or deeper. Such a crossing is not
 to be treated lightly since the force of the flowing water may be very great, a
nd should be taken very seriously if the water is more than knee deep. This forc
e may be sufficient to move large stones rapidly downstream. The rescuer will pr
obably, not have a chance to wait until the time of day for optimum crossing. Ea
rly morning hours are often best, both for lowest water when glacial runoff is l
ikely to be at a minimum and for the most daylight to dry out wet clothing, or t
he best time may be a long while after a rain allowing time for the excess runof
f to pass.
在一般的登山學當中，救難隊員有可能必須要橫渡過水流很強，水深及膝甚至更深的溪谷。
這樣的橫渡溪谷不應該被看輕，因為水的力量可以是很強大的，而且當水的深度超過膝蓋時
，就應該嚴肅地看待橫渡溪谷這件事。這個力量可能大到足以將大石頭迅速往下游?。救難
隊員很可能無法等到一天當中最適合渡溪的時間，清晨的幾個小時常常是最佳的渡河時機，
因為這時冰河的溶雪水量最小，並且有最長的日光將衣物弄乾。最佳渡河時間也可能是在大
雨過後一直等到水退去之後。

INDIVIDUAL CROSSING個人渡河

Considerable effort should be made to find a dry path across on fallen timber or
 logjams or by jumping from boulder to boulder. It should be kept in mind that w
et logs and boulders may be very slimy and, slippery, and the ice ax can be used
 for an additional point of contact. If the best route appears to be by boulder
hopping, the climber should carefully pick a route involving no long jumps which
 are difficult while wearing a heavy pack. He should then memorize the route, so
 that once he starts crossing he need not stop in a precarious position part way
 across.
應該盡量找到不用涉水的方式，例如倒木，或以跳石的方式通過。要注意的是，潮濕的倒木
和石頭可能會非常黏滑，冰斧可以用來當作額外的支點。如果跳石很明顯是最佳過溪途徑時
，應該小心地選一條沒有遠跳躍的路徑，因為背著背包很難做到這樣的動作，而且他應該要
記住路線，才不會半途停在不穩的姿勢。

If it is necessary to wade, a distant view from a high vantage point may help to
 find the best ford. The widest, and thus shallowest and least swiftly flowing,
flattest crossing point should be found. The crossing iseasiest on a smooth firm
 gravel bottom. To be avoided are a bottom covered with large rocks which provid
e poor footing and cause turbulence, sand which may be quicksand, and snags. The
 best ford is often found above rapids. Also, if the river runs in channels, it
may be easier to pick a route through several small channels than through the on
e main course. Sharp bends in the river are to be avoided since the water is lik
ely to be deep with strong current along the outside of the bend.
如果一定得涉水的話，從遠處的高點展望溪谷對於找出可涉水而過的過溪點有所幫助。在最
寬，也因此最淺水流最不急的地方，應當能找到最平緩的過溪點。最容易的渡溪是在平坦碎
石底的溪床裡，而應該避免的是大石頭密佈的溪床，不僅踏足點不好，還會引起水流紊亂，
沙子會變成流沙導致擱淺。最好的過溪點常是
在激流的上方，如果溪谷以數個水道出現，挑一條經過數個小水道的路線會比一條通過一個
主河道的路線容易。應該要避免溪谷的急彎處，因為那裡的水由比較強的水流衝擊而成，也
會比較深。

The crossing should be made wearing boots (not tennis shoes and not barefoot) fo
r foot protection and warmth, but the socks may be removed and these dry socks c
arried to be put back on after crossing. Loose baggy pants should be rolled up t
o avoid resistance to the current, but the legs need protection from very cold g
lacial runoff; wool long johns are good.
The pack should have the lightest items (clothing and down things in waterproof
bags) at the top for additional buoyancy in case of a slip. All items should be
inside or very securely lashed on. The pack should be worn with loose shoulder s
traps and the waist strap free so that the pack can be removed if footing is los
t, at which time the pack may act like an anchor.
過溪時應該穿著鞋子（不是運動鞋也不是赤腳）保護腳並且提供保暖，但是可以將襪子脫下
，在過完溪之後再將襪子穿回去。應該將寬鬆的褲子捲起來以避免對水流的抗力，但需要作
好腳的保溫，因為冰河的溶雪非常冷，羊毛製的全身式內衣是很好的選擇。應該把最輕的東
西（衣物和羽毛製品放在防水袋裡）放在背包
的頂端，以防萬一跌倒時增加背包的浮力。所有的東西都應該打包好放在背包內，背負時肩
帶要鬆開一些，腰帶則要解開，一旦失足時背包要能脫開，並且當作固定點用。

If an individual is crossing alone in swift current, he can keep his balance bes
t by using an ice ax or a sturdy tree branch as a third point of support for con
tact to the stream bottom upstream from his feet. He will lean heavily on the ax
 facing upstream and move only one foot or the ax at a time. For best stability
the feet are shuffled along and not lifted from the
river bottom, and they are kept widely spaced. Also, the feet should be placed o
n the upstream side of underwater obstacles encountered. However, crossing shoul
d be downstream from partly submerged timber to avoid being swept under and caug
ht.
如果一個人要通過水流很急的溪谷時，使用冰斧或強固的樹枝當作第三個支撐點，稱在上游
方向，這樣能提供最佳的身體平衡。橫渡時要面向上游方向，用力靠在冰斧上，一次只能移
動其中一個點。?了穩定，腳只能拖著移動不能抬腳移動，而且兩隻腳不能太靠近。如果碰
到溪底的障礙物，要將腳放在上游位置，然而當碰到半露出的倒木時，要從下游位置通過以
避免被掃到下面而動彈不得。

An important part of stream crossing, even a precarious dry one, might be termed
 "mental balance “ One should never think in terms of going under and should no
t look at the surface of the water, but should look at a landmark on the far ban
k. Speed of crossing is important because of the severe chilling potential of th
e water. Cold, which is tolerable at first
may produce pain and panic a few minutes later.
渡溪的一個重要部份，連不涉水的渡溪都一樣，稱之為「心理的平衡」。渡溪時不應該想著
會被沖到水面下，也不該看著水面，而應該看著溪谷的對岸。渡溪時的速度很重要，因為水
會快速帶走你的體溫，一開始可能可以忍受水的冷，但是可能在幾分鐘後發痛而驚慌。

TEAM CROSSINGS
團隊渡溪

Much more secure than the one-man crossing is the two-man or team crossing. If t
wo men cross, the taller and stronger member will use his ice ax as a third poin
t of contact and will be the upstream man, facing upstream and breaking the forc
e of the flow for his partner who also
faces upstream and hangs onto the hips or belt of the upstream man. Then there a
re a total of five points of contact with the stream bottom, two pairs of boots
and the ax. It is also helpful for a smaller man using his own ax as a third poi
nt and doing an individual crossing to have someone just upstream breaking the c
urrent somewhat. This form of assistance may be put to use when one member of a
party gets into difficulty or "freezes" in midstream.
二人或團隊渡溪遠比單人渡溪安全。如果是兩人渡溪，較高與較強的人用冰斧作第三個支點
站在上游方向，面向上游將水流的力量打散，在下游方向者也要面向上游，手則抓在上游者
的腰部或腰帶上。這時與溪床的接觸點總共有五個，兩雙鞋子和一枝冰斧。另外一個方法是
讓較矮的渡溪者拿冰斧當第三支點過溪，而另
外一個人在他的上游幫忙將水流力量打散，這樣的協助過溪用在當渡溪者在半途受困或是凍
僵時。

When conditions are fierce, the two-man or larger team is much safer than for on
e to try it alone. A stable configuration for the large team crossing is a line,
 with each man's arms linked with his neighbor's arms at the elbows, and his own
 hands locked in front. A more stable arrangement is for each man to hold his ow
n ax and one end or each neighbor's ax horizontally in front of his chest while
linking arms as shown in Fig. 20-1. Even better is the long pole crossing, where
 each man in the team holds onto a pole (sapling) in front of his chest wrapping
 his arms around the pole, one arm around the top, the other underneath. In each
 of these methods, the tallest, strongest man will be at the upstream end, and t
he line is parallel to the current.
當溪谷的水流很急，兩人或是團隊的渡溪遠比一個人獨力過溪安全。對團對而言，一個穩固
的過溪隊形是呈一條線的，兩兩間以手臂互扣的方式連結，自己的手臂在前。一個更穩固的
方式是將冰斧在胸前平放，抓住自己與連接者的冰斧作連結（如圖20-1所示）。另一個更好
的方法是用登山杖在胸前作連結，用雙手繞過登山杖（一隻手在上另一隻手在下）作連結。
在這些方法當中，隊伍中最高，最強的要站在最上游的位置，隊伍的直線要和水流平行。
<img src="../../images/bbs/rivercrossing-1.jpg">
Fig.20-1. Team crossing. Direction of flow is parallel to the line of the waders
.

USE OF ROPE
繩子的使用

If the crossing is severe and less than a rope length, one strong person with lo
ng legs should cross with the idea of setting up a hand line, belay or Tyrolean
system to aid followers. When there is real danger of his being swept off his fe
et, this intrepid leader should not be wearing a heavy pack, which may force him
 under water if he should lose his
footing. He certainly should have a belay from a solidly anchored position upstr
eam from the point of departure. And if he must wear a pack, it should be given
a belay too. If no trees or suitable boulders are available for an anchor (say f
or a sitting belay), it may be possible to use a boot-ax technique in the river
bank (see the chapter on snow anchors). The
anchor must be solid since the forces of a swift current on a man under water or
 even on the rope alone are quite large. The belayer may be backed up by another
 man.
如果溪水很強而溪谷的長度不及繩子的長度時，先鋒渡溪者就該想到幫接著過溪的成員架設
扶手繩、確保繩或是泰洛琳（Tyrolean）橫渡繩。當溪水強到先鋒者可能有失足被沖掉的危
險時，就不應該背著背包過溪，因為背包可能會使他被拉到水面下。他一定要有強固的固定
點而且要在渡溪點的上方，如果他必須要背著
背包過溪的話，也要幫背包作確保。如果沒有樹或是大石頭當固定點的話（用作姿確保），
可以使用登山鞋---冰斧確保方式。固定點必須要很穩固，因為繩子在水面下承受急流與人
體重量，甚至光繩子本身在水面下的吃力都是相當大的。確保者也應該讓另一個成員幫他作
確保。

The tie-in used by the wader should be only a chest loop (arms passed through a
simple loop across back and neck as shown in Figure 20-2) with tie-in point in f
ront. A waist loop should never be used because there is a serious danger that t
he wader's head would be submerged in the case of a fall with a waist tie-in.
過溪者的繩圈套入應該只有胸部繩圈而已（手穿過簡單的繩圈繞到背頸部，如圖20-2所示）
，連接點在胸前的位置。不該使用腰部的繩圈，因為當過溪者掉進溪谷裡會有頭埋入水中的
危險。
<img src="../../images/bbs/rivercrossing-2.jpg">
Fig. 20-2. Chest loop tie-in. The strands may cross in back.

A hand line is appropriate when the crossing is not very severe but where there
is a special reason for wanting some extra steadiness in crossing, such as acros
s an easy place above rapids or deep water, for extra aid for inexperienced memb
ers, or where one is carrying a large load. The line should be anchored firmly,
and the wader crosses with his upstream
arm over the rope. The hand line may be a useful aid even if the wader is belaye
d as below. Alternatively the wader could clip himself to the hand line with his
 chest loop. If the ice ax is carried in hand, it may be held in self-arrest pos
ition with the pick over the rope, but must be held in such a way that it cannot
 tangle with the hand line in case of a fall.
當水流不是非常強，但是要額外增加渡溪時的穩定性時，例如橫渡過下方是激流或深潭的時
候，扶手繩是可以適當加入以幫助經驗較差的成員，或是有人背著很大的背包。繩子必須做
好強固的固定點，渡溪者將上游方向的那隻手跨過繩子，讓繩子在腋下通過。扶手繩甚至在
渡溪者處於被確保狀態下，都是個好用的幫手。另一種方式是渡溪者用胸部繩圈扣進扶手繩
當中。當你手上有冰斧時，可以成制動姿勢將鶴嘴放置於繩子上方，萬一被急流沖掉時一定
可以抓住繩子且不會亂晃。

BELAYED CROSSING
有確保的渡溪

The belayed crossing is made by the first wader tying in and crossing in a diago
nal downstream path. He may lean against the rope for support. If he loses his f
ooting, he will pendulum into the near bank. The ford should be chosen in a loca
tion free from boulders and snags which might catch the rope and prevent the fal
len man from swinging all the way back to the bank for easy recovery. Also, it m
ight be worth having rescuers on the bank at the end of the swing to give assist
ance as needed. If conditions are suitable and time is available. A Tyrolean sys
tem could be set up so that only the first man has to wade. The following paragr
aphs assume that everyone will wade. When there is plenty of rope available, the
 following method illustrated in Figure 20-3 is most secure. The best river man
(A) goes first belayed by the second best (B) who goes last. When A gets across,
 he moves upstream and sets up a belay opposite B. and the next wader (C) ties i
n at B. Then C pendulums across taking about the same path as A. while B lets ro
pe out, and A keeps the rope taut. If C falls, he should be pendulumed to the mo
st favorable bank (hopefully to A so that the crossing is accomplished). In a se
vere crossing, A will not wear his pack, which can later be pendulumed across by
 A and B. Of course all packs should be securely tied shut and have no gear dang
ling loose on the outside. Finally B crosses, belayed by A only.
有確保的橫渡是當先鋒渡溪者要橫渡溪谷對角線時所用的方法，他可以靠向繩子的方向以增
加支撐力量。如果失足被水沖掉，他會擺盪到岸邊。過溪點要選擇在沒有大石頭的地方，因
為石頭會將繩子拉住，失足者無法順利游回岸邊，有一些人在岸邊協助失足者是有必要的。
如果狀況和時間允許的話，可以架起泰洛琳（Tyrolean）橫渡系統，這樣就只有一個人需要
渡過溪谷。接下來的文章假設每個人都需要渡過溪谷，當有足夠長度的繩子時，如圖20-3所
示的方法是最安全的。水性最好的A首先過溪，由水性次佳，同時也是最後一個過溪的B負責
確保工作，當A到達對岸之後，走到B的正對岸做好確保，下一個渡溪者C在B點套入胸部繩圈
確保，C的渡溪路徑與A相同，當C渡溪時B要給出繩子而A要將繩子收緊，如果C失足被沖掉，
會被沖到對岸（最好是?到A抵達岸邊的點）。在水流更急的狀況下，A不要背背包過，背包
可以讓A和B擺盪送到對岸，當然所有背包要打包紮實，並且不能有任何裝備懸掛在背包外。
最後B通過時由A作確保。
<img src="../../images/bbs/rivercrossing-3.jpg">
Fig.20-3. Technique of belayed river crossing. A. the best river man, goes first
, and B, the second best. goes last.

If only enough rope is available for a belay from one bank, A crosses as above.
C ties into the main belay rope and also ties on alight retrieving cord held by
Band is belayed by A. This retrieving line is necessary since it would probably
be impossible to throw the rope back to B after C crosses.
如果繩子的長度只夠從一邊作確保，A仍像上述過溪，C要套入胸部繩圈中由A作確保工作，
同時要有另外一條回收繩連接到B手上作主繩的回收工作，這條回收繩是必要的因為C過溪之
後幾乎不可能將主繩拋回去給B。

RIVER CROSSING EVACUATION
渡河撤退

If the crossing is quite easy, a victim who can walk but is not up to wading may
 be carried across by a rescuer using a tragsitz or improvised rope seat with th
e rescuer making use of a hand line and belay for added safety. For best securit
y when a litter is being carried, two taut hand lines should be set about 2 ft (
.6 m) apart, and the litter bearers walk between these with the ropes under thei
r armpits. The hand lines should be secured 10 ft (3 m) or more back from the ba
nk so that the litter bearers can make use of the lines as they start and comple
te the crossing.
如果是簡單的渡溪，一個可以行走但無法渡溪的傷患，救難隊員可以用tragsitz或是繩子製
作成的簡易座位並使用扶手繩，還確保以提高安全性。當搬運擔架時，?了最高的安全性，
兩條拉緊的扶手繩之間要距離60公分，擔架的搬運者要走在兩條扶手繩之間，而且要讓扶手
繩在腋下的位置。扶手繩要固定在距離岸邊至少3公尺的地方，使擔架搬運者能在開始和完
成渡溪時使用扶手繩。

If the litter can be lashed to long poles, the litter bearers are spread out and
 thus perhaps not all be in the strongest current at the same time.
如果擔架可以綁上長長的棍子，搬運者就可以間隔遠一些，渡溪途中或許就不會同時處在最
急流的地方。

If belays or team techniques are needed for the crossing, carrying a victim in a
 litter will be extremely dangerous and is best not attempted. In this situation
, a Tyrolean should be used if possible, or a helicopter should be summoned. A d
ay or so waiting or finding an alternate safe route is preferable to losing the
victim.
如果需要確保或是需要團隊技術才能渡溪時，搬運擔架中的傷患渡溪是極端危險的行為，最
好不要嘗試。這樣的情況下，如果可能可以用泰洛琳（Tyrolean）橫渡系統，或是使用直昇
機。花一天的時間等待或是能找到替代的安全路線是值得
的。

REFERENCES:
1. Safety in the Mountains, Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand, 1967.