先鋒攀登
先鋒基本守則
Check your gears and replace as necessary
Know your partners and their habits
Check your belay always
Fixed gear is unreliable - back it up when possible
Rock breaks - check your holders
Always double check your rappel system
檢查你的工具，做適當的置換。
認識你的繩伴和他的習慣。
一定要檢查確保系統是否正確。
人工支點如bolts、pistons不見得可靠？如有需要加備份。
岩石會碎裂 ？隨時注意手點、腳點。
下降時，記得反覆檢查下降系統
開始攀登之前以下幾點事項要熟記！
掛繩(Clip-In)：注意鉤環開口（carabiner gate）的方向﹐再決定拈取繩索與clip-in的方
式
↓掛繩端的鉤環用膠布固定，免得在岩壁上假如鉤環轉了還要調整，一般整套的快扣在扁帶
上有橡皮套可用。
↓注意攀登方向，使繩子靠在遠離開口端，而且身體這端要在鉤環外側；右圖在墜落時繩子
會脫出。
↓快扣要放好，勿轉折；鉤環要正；繩子記得要掛對方向。
↓掛繩的方式。
Roll Clip：Best with the biner's gate facing you. The rope is grasped between th
e thumb and first finger The tip of the middle finger is put IN the biner (still
closed) at the bottom, where the rope would be running through it. The rope now
lies between your thumb and forefinger, just outside of the gate, going from yo
ur finger-tips to the belay-end, and coming out along your wrist towards your en
d. Now "roll" your hand such that the thumb and forefinger bring the rope into a
nd through the gate. CLICK. You are now clipped in. This can be kind hard to do
when the draws are resting on slabby stuff, as the rope is interfered with by th
e rock. It has a distinct advantage that you can easily "grab" the draw if you s
tart to slip, and that you can use the pull on the draw to bring up slack out of
the rope. It also seems to work better for reachy clips, though not at all for
clips below my waist.
快扣開口面向你時最好用。用拇指、食指間拈繩，中指指尖放在鉤環底部中間（繩子要到之
處）；此時繩子在拇指及食指間，靠近鉤環，確保端的繩子靠近手指，身體端從手腕出來。
然後用滾的拇指食指連繩子扣進鉤環，『喀』一聲，繩子就進去了。這在斜板地形較不順手
，因為快扣靠在岩壁，繩子會被岩壁妨礙到；不過，好處是當你有點要滑動時可以"抓住"快
扣，且順勢帶出貼緊岩壁的繩子。一般來說，快扣位置較高時，掛繩會比較順手，不過即使
快扣低到腰部以下的位置也是可以用的。
Pinch Clip：Best with the biner's gate facing away from you. The rope is grasped
and "folded" lightly such that the belay end is closer towards the finger tips,
and the tie-in end closer to the palm and wrist. The rope is more or less trapp
ed in the hand by the fingers. You reach out and put your thumb on the back of t
he biner and pinch, forcing the rope (trapped between the gate and first finger)
into the biner. CLIP, you are in.
快扣開口背向你時最好用。把繩子拈起摺疊讓確保端在指尖那一側，然後身上這一端靠近手
掌及手腕。繩子有點像被指頭卡在手中，伸出拇指放在鉤環背側，把繩子壓進鉤環（繩子夾
在食指和鉤環開口間）。
注意：左右手都要勤加練習，找出適合自己的掛繩方式。
↓觀察路線：做好計畫且讓固定點井然有序(Make a plan and get your gears organize
d)，否則橫向的拉力會讓確保點都拖出。
Reducing rope drag：the pro placements should be extended using runners to str
aighten the rope and reduce rope drag；REMEMBER：Do not allow the rope to excess
ively zig-zag, this will cause severe rope drag.
減少繩子的阻力：放置固定點時應該用帶繩使繩直能伸直減少阻力；記得不要讓繩子程之字
形，那會使繩子多出很多橫向拉力。
Protect the Leader↓這樣的固定點系統用在second攀登時還好，但是確保leading時就有
點不妙；如何修正？
↓這傢伙leading時好像犯了個錯，如何修正？
↓有經驗的確保者，可以減低先鋒墜落的危險性。
↓翻懸岩墜落時，繩子太緊也不好。
↓下圖之女士攀登時，主繩好像有點亂、有點危險。確保者要如何修正？
↓確保者要專心，注意先鋒者的動態；即使如此，先鋒者真的墜落時，要怎麼辦？
↓橫渡很危險，加些確保點比較好。
Clean the pitch：Use nut tools to remove Pros from a route. Usually done by th
e follower.
用岩楔起子拿出自己放的固定點，通常由第二個人收。
放上去的要記得收回來。
先鋒攀登之型態
On-Sight：Leading a climb with no falls and no dogging and without any prior att
empts, watching someone do it or beta on how to do the moves.
先鋒攀登沒有墜落也沒有中途休息，之先也沒先試過路線，沒看過別人爬或任何攀登的資訊
。
註：難度比賽就是這種先鋒方式。
Flash：Leading a climb with no falling or dogging, but with a piece of previous
knowledge hints on how to do those crux moves. Even seeing someone do the climb
already classifies as 'previous knowledge'.
先鋒攀登沒有墜落也沒有中途休息，但是有先看過路難如何攀登的資訊，甚至看別人爬也算
是。
Red-Point：To lead with no pre-placed gear (other than bolts or normally fixed g
ear like pitons). Usually this implies that it's not your first try, falls were
taken, etc., but no gear was left in place to assist the lead. Removing all the
quickdraws (especially the top one) is often time-consuming, so if others are wa
iting to do the route, pinkpoint style is often used.
先鋒攀登但不放確保點（只有bolts或岩釘之類的一般固定點）。通常是不只試了一次，墜
落之後再試一次等等。但是沒有任何工具來幫助攀登。 移去所有的快扣要浪費很多時間（
特別是最上面那個），所以假如有別人要爬這條路線，常用pinkpoint的方法。
Pink-Point：To red-point a climb where the pro and runners have been pre-placed.
就像Red-Point，只是固定點及快扣都已放置好。
How to do Red-Pointing or Pink-Pointing:
Choosing a route
Eliminating errors in single moves
Linking moves together
Spreading the fatigue
Planning the clips and chalk stops
Eliminating errors in sequences of moves
選擇一條路線
試試每一步到最好的情況沒有錯誤
把動作連起來做
如何分散疲勞（如何休息）
何時掛繩，何時摸粉袋
把所有的動作連起來做且沒有錯誤
Yoyo：Pre-placed gear; the rope is left clipped through some of the gears after
each lead attempt.
先放置確保點；在每次嘗試之後繩子就扣在某些確保點上；在每次嘗試之後繩子就扣在某些
確保點上。也就是說，每次都從最低點開始起攀，不過墜落後繩子並不取下，下次攀登時前
次的部分是top-ropping，超過前次高度後才再掛繩。
Hangdog：Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usu
al mode of ascent :)
爬一爬，在繩子上休息，再往上爬直到某個目標達到了（通常都是用這種形式）。
尋找自己的攀登STYLE：相同的路線，每個人的攀登方式或多或少都會不同的。
Our style results from our personal profile of strengths and weakness.
個人的力量和弱點造成不同的 Style。
Accuracy of movement
Reliability of movement
Quality of movement
Speed
Reaction time
Use of the body
Effective training
動作的精確
動作的確實
動作的特質
速度
反應的時間
身體的使用
訓練的效果
張忠恕、邱子寰編譯