Go Big Or Go Home
10 Steps to Better Dynos
by Phillip Benningfield


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try, try again Spend some time inside at the gym. If you are new to dynoing,
the abundance of big holds, padded floors and walls, and scads of potential
spotters make for a great learning environment. Start with short dynos on
good holds. Once you've got that down, go bigger. When distance is no longer
an issue, try using less positive holds.

hocus focus! Keep your eyes on the distant hold from the time you set up to
jump all the way until you latch it. Concentrate gently on where you are going
.
One caveat: If you've been trying the dyno repeatedly and still can't get it,
it sometimes helps to focus on another hold, to the left or the right ?
this can take the pressure off and let your mind do what it needs to do.

kiss your feet Get your feet up as high as you can. Seek out the best foot
placements, whether they are vast jugs, sharp edges or shallow divots.
Place your feet carefully, pressing them firmly onto the features,
to make sure you get the best traction when you thrust.

frog legs You'll get the most strength if you set up with both feet
splayed out in a frog position: heels in, toes out and crouched with the legs
bent to catapult you.

air jordan Your legs are much stronger than your arms and will give you the
majority of your distance. When you dyno, push as hard as possible with the
legs. Think about that next hold as a basketball rim if you have to.

ten-sion! Keep your arms taut and pulling you into the rock throughout the
dyno. As your legs push you up, pull with your arms, keeping your forearms
as close to the rock as possible. Then push with your wrists and hands as
you move past them. The key is to keep the tension so you stay in close to
the rock, rather than flying off into space like a used rocket booster.

pelvic thrusts The hips are critical to keeping the body in close to the rock
during flight time. Begin with the butt out, then, as you launch upward,
thrust your hips toward the rock and flex your glutes. This will help to
direct your motion upward rather than outward, which will maximize your jump.

reach for the sky The body in flight can reach only so far without
concentrating on the extension of the arms and torso. Pretend as if you are
a diver, and really stretch your body into a pole. Every bit of extension
gets you that much closer to the hold.

paddy cake If you are afraid, it can help to just jump up and gently pat the
hold you're going for. Once your mind realizes that you can span the distance,
it becomes a lot easier to grab the hold. Get comfortable with the jump,
then deal with the mental aspects of snagging the hold.

hang on for dear life When you latch the top hold, don't let go, even if you
feel the flesh ripping off your finger. If you want a dyno badly enough, you
have to be willing to lose a little skin.

Phillip Benningfield is the author of Colorado Bouldering.

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