[分享]買車與談價錢技巧(NJ)

[ocupy (束縛不住的枷鎖)]

會想打這篇是因為覺得剛來美國能在一個月內考完駕照與買到新車算是動作蠻快的，
也希望自己能幫助到板上剛到美國的新生一些忙與買車所需注意的事項，
減少他們的擔心與徬徨!

在NJ這邊我想你想買車的第一步就是””趕快去考駕照””，
考完照Dealer才肯給你拿車與簽約，他也才能幫你辦註冊的手續，
之前我自己就是太急，想說有人可以拿國際駕照買車與開車，
但是基本上這應該在NJ行不通，我就是這樣被打回票，即使訂下了車子，
你還是不能開走，因為你不能買保險然後Dealer也不敢讓你開走，
簡而言之就是，快去考駕照!! 考照可以參考紐約版的NJ考照懶人包!

買新車(我是買新車，二手車的人可以參考我的議價流程與買車Tip):

我是買2010 Honda Civic Lx，到最後完全辦到好的價錢是低於Invoice 100塊，
也算是我自己還滿意的價錢，只是沒殺到我的終極價錢很惋惜就是了!

1.先到KBB尋找dealer與網路上request quote:

KBB: http://www.kbb.com/
它所需要你填的大概就是你的基本資料和最主要是你的電話和e-mail，
當你今天request quote完之後，我保證你隔天會有接不完的電話與收不完的E-mail.
電話我一律的回答是: If your quote is fine, I will appoint
with you for testing of drive.然後和他不用廢話太多浪費錢。

2.比價工作與價錢暗藏玄機:

比價工作我自己是會做一張Excel表讓自己知道哪個dealer是最低價，
到最後才選定3個dealer到他那試車與談價錢。重點是誰是最低價呢?
通常Dealer給你的價錢不包含一項叫做Destination Charge (有的會包含)，
甚至機車一點的Dealer會故意報同款車但是是手排的價錢!
所以會讓車價看起來很低然後吸引你去它那看車，
最好這個可以在E-mail上問清楚所有的價錢，最好是辦到好的價錢，
但是通常Dealer不會給你，然後一直盧你去看車，重點是Dealer不是好人，
請不用對他有同理心(深深這麼覺得)!!
所以給一個比較General的說法就是，確定你的價錢有無包含Destination Charge
與這個價錢是否是自排的價錢，確定之後比價完，辦到好的價錢再到Dealer那談!

3.價錢玄機 (以下摘錄自Buying car tips，列舉Dealer會提出的報價，請仔細參考，
裡面有我自己的註記，所以應該算是重點中的重點了):

簡而言之就是: 車價+ Destination charge + Car tax + NJ tire Fee ($7)
+New Plate Fee ($279)

1. "ADM" or "ADP" Charges (Additional Dealer Markup) (Do not need!!)

2. Advertising Fees (Honda is included in invoice price)

Many dealers are sticklers about this fee, and it's difficult to get them
to drop it, but some do waive the fee. If a dealer adds on their own
advertising fee above and beyond this, they are out of bounds.
Dealers try to charge $250-$1000, but it should not be more than $250.
Ford dealers use the cryptic term "FDAF/LMDA" on their invoice.
"FDAF" stands for "Ford Dealer Advertising Fund", and the "LMDA" stands
for Lincoln Mercury Dealer Advertising. Why can't they just disclose it
as "ad fee"? I didn't pay an ad fee for my Lexus in 1998 or the
Mazda Millenia in 1999. Honda add fees are built into the invoice price,
don't let them charge you extra. Other companies choose their own cryptic
acronym, like DAA (Dealer Area Advertising),
TDA (Toyota Dealer Advertising Fee), HDA, you
get the picture. If it ends with an "A", it's most likely an advertising fee.
Speaking of advertising, dealers are neither grateful nor shy about
plastering their name on the trunk of your shiny new car at a cost of $0
to them. You then spend the next several years advertising their dealership
free of charge with your moving billboard. You should charge them a $600
advertising fee for that.

3. "Dealer Floorplan Assistance" Fees/Wholesale Financial Reserves/
Dealer Interest Fee (No Charge!It’s Factory expense not mine.)

Have them remove this insult. Dealer Floorplan Interest is the interest
that dealers pay for loans to buy the cars on their lot.
The longer the car sits unsold on the lot, the more $150 interest checks
the dealer pays. They want you to "assist" them in "paying it",
which is the factory's expense, not yours. Dealers know we are on to them,
so some have changed the name to a confusing term called
"Wholesale Financial Reserves." or "Dealer Interest Fee".

4.Dealer Prep (No Charge! Factory have already paid! )

The most common scam, because it's so believable. They act like a team of
NASA experts performed a 3 day 15,000 point check of your car.
Dealer prep "covers their cost" of removing plastic films on the seats,
vacuuming the car, and preparing it for sale, done by their lowest paid
employee. But most MSRP stickers show these costs are covered by the car
maker. Here's the MSRP sticker from my Lexus SC300:
The factory pays the dealer for this pre-delivery service.
When my Lexus SC300 arrived, it took the dealer 2 hours to peel the film,
remove cardboard, install fuses, check the liquids, perform a 10 mile test
drive, and hand me the keys. If a dealer charges a $500 dealer prep,
you're paying them $250 per hour! Are you boiling mad yet? Often it's
permanently printed on the buyer's form to make you think it's mandatory,
but nearly everyone I know is able to make the dealer drop it by adding a
credit to the next line. If they refuse to remove it, just walk.
Tell them you want to see if the other local dealers will drop the fee.

5. Destination Charge (Must charge)

Dealers pay a destination charges to have cars delivered on auto transport
trucks. For my 1998 Lexus SC300, it's $495, passed on to us. This is one of
the few legitimate fees. Verify the amount with online pricing sites before
you go in to buy.

6. Documentation Fees (In DMV, it is cheaper than 249)

Expenses like registration, tags, title, and other state fees.
Determine the fees your state charges before you go shopping. Call the
Department of Motor Vehicles to determine the cost of registering a new car,
and getting the tags if necessary. It may be cheaper to transfer the tag
from your old car to the new one. Once you know all documentation fees,
determine if the dealer is padding the charge. Have the salesman give a
breakdown of every fee in writing.

7. Drive off Deposit (No charge!!)

A bogus fee that greediest of dealerships pile on those with bad credit.
The purpose of this fee is to steal your rebate from you. One reader had a
$900 rebate on his car, but the dealer stole it right back with a $900
drive off deposit. What does "Drive Off Deposit" mean? Nothing, it's a
meaningless term. If you see a drive off deposit on your worksheet, just
drive off, no deposit.

8. Window VIN# Etching Fee (stupid fee!!)

A stupid fee for etching the VIN# or other anti theft information into your
side windows. It costs next to nothing for the dealer to do it, and the
average fee is about $300. You can buy same kit in auto parts stores for $20
, and do it yourself.

9. Factory Holdback (No charge!! If charge, remove immediately!)

US auto makers pay dealers a "factory holdback" of 3% MSRP on every car sold.
Mercedes pays 3%, Lexus is 2%, but Edmunds claims Lexus has no holdback.
BMW, Japanese imports, etc., pay 2% quarterly to the dealership. It's called
holdback, because the factory holds back money from the dealer until they
sell the car. This is accounted for by charging the dealer for holdback on
the invoice, paying them back when the car is sold. On a $30,000 car, the
holdback is $900. This appears to you and me as though the dealer paid $900
more for the car than he did. This is done by the factory as a means to
compensate dealers for interest on loans that they take out to buy the cars
from the factory, and also to provide a little bit of profit to the dealer.
The holdback is included in every invoice price. This is how dealers can sell
you a car at invoice, because the factory refunds them the holdback once the
car is sold. They can sell you a $30,000 car at invoice and have a $900
positive cash flow. Many people don't know holdback exists, including many
car salesman, as this goes directly to the dealer, and it effectively reduces
the dealer's cost of the car. Many dealers deny it exists, or tell the
customer it's a dealer expense, and try to add it on to the contract make
the customer "pay" for it. It's the factory's expense once the car is sold.
Now the dealer is double collecting. If any dealer tries to itemize you
separately for holdback, leave immediately, you'll surely be subject to many
more unscrupulous tricks. Don't let a dealer tell you there's no holdback,
it's the business plan that the whole industry is structured to. Denial is
a popular trick used by dealers in Hawaii. But many good car dealers list
holdback on their web sites.

10. LieNance Managers

That's my funny name for some Finance Managers who lie and cheat, for example
, telling you that your credit score is too low to get a good APR, or telling
you that the bank requires you to buy a warranty, gap insurance, VIN etch,
or credit life in order for you to get the loan.

11. Port Prep Fee or Port Installed Options (PIO)

These are fees for prep or options installed at the port of entry by the
manufacturer. For example, Toyota has a Port Installed Option added to the
cars once they land in Florida called ToyoGuard, an extremely overpriced
rubberized coating sprayed inside your wheel wells to prevent rust.
Sometimes this adds up to $600 your Toyota. Some port prep fees might only be
$25. VW in Washington D.C. seems to have some PIOs that are unavoidable too..

12. Registration Fees

That's a tough one to determine, each state is different. There may also be
small tire and battery fees around $10 levied by the state. In Florida,
it's cheaper to transfer your plates from the trade-in to the new car, about
$50 instead of $180 for new plates. Some states charge hundreds, so check
with your DMV before going shopping. Print out the DMV fees online and bring
them to the dealer. Quite often dealer charge up to $400 "document fees"
supposedly to handle paperwork transfer of the plate, done by their lowest
paid secretary. Give me a break.

13. Washington Association Fee

Buyers in Washington D.C. buying a Volkswagen said the dealer tried to
charge a $175 Washington Association Fee claiming it was "the cost that
the manufacturer charged them for doing business in this area". We don't
know if this is a valid fee or not. It sure sounds like a bogus charge to me.
Factory Incentives & Rebates:
Incentives are used by the factory to stimulate car sales to unload inventory.
There's 2 kinds of incentives: Factory To Dealer and Factory To Consumer.

Factory To Dealer Incentives

You and I don't know about these. Sometimes Edmunds lists them,
but they don't always show all the ones available. Incentives can be huge,
and reduce the dealer's effective cost to buy the car. If there is one
available on your car, many dealers are willing to give up some of it.

Factory To Consumer Incentives (Rebates)
Rebates are paid by the factory to you, or the dealer subtracts it from the
price. Some states charge sales tax on it. A common scam at "No Haggle"
dealers is to charge lower than MSRP, (MSRP - Rebate), so you really aren't
getting a deal, so ask if the price includes a rebate. Rebates can be
$500-$2000 or more, and put you ahead when you resell it years later.
The rebate is from the factory, NOT the dealer. Don't let them jack up the
price "because we are giving you a rebate", the dealer has nothing to do with
the rebate. The factory subsidizes lower APR leases and 2% loans in lieu of
rebates, but you need stellar credit.

Conversion Vans, Custom Vehicles

These are difficult find pricing. Conversion vans are sent by the
manufacturer to a company who installs fancy molding, doors, windows,
wheels, etc. They look better, and you pay more. But pricing sites have no
info on custom vehicles. No one knows the pricing, so don't ask me. You can
be taken for a ride because you are flying blind, with no reference pricing,
but if you don't mind paying up to $9000 extra it's OK. Don't expect good
resale value, they aren't popular or easy to resell. The "extras" packages
that you will be given the hard sell on, including paint sealant and fabric
treatment, will VOID your conversion package warranty. Have the dealer put it
in writing it will not void the warranty. Ask to see the conversion warranty.
If they don't have it, tell them to call the conversion company, you want to
speak to them. If you get a song and dance, it's time to leave. Anytime they
try to get out of giving you the information you ask for, it's time to leave.
Call the conversion company ahead about the warranty.

5.談價錢廢話不用多說，你的秘密武器就是Pay by cash(使用cashier check):

遇到Dealer什麼話都不用多說，他把所有Fee開出來後和你談總價，
你可以依照我上面給你的Tip，把一些太高與不必要的Fee去掉與減價後，再跟他說:
My budget is only $$$, I will pay by cash. Could you sell it? 那他當然會跟你
廢話很多說什麼這是最低價啦! 請不用客氣，記住我說的dealer非善類，不行不符合
你的價錢就直接走人，有的dealer也是很不客氣的，所以最重要的是談到你要的價錢!

6.簽約-->付check-->簽文件-->把車開走

談完價錢基本上就鬆了非常大一口氣了，剩下的就大概是我上面列的流程! 要記住的是
你一定會知道你的VIN Number，即使你的plate還不知道，如果Dealer說他不知道，
他一定在騙人，這絕對是要離那Dealer遠一點走人的! 你所簽的文件裡面大概會有他們
準備要幫你辦plate啥的，Plate大概是距離你買車之後2個禮拜dealer會拿到，
你自己再去他們那邊拿然後把車牌掛上。你買完車當天可以開走是因為你會有
Temperatory plate，所以這是不用擔心的!!

基本上大概是這樣了! 希望有幫助到一些人! 也希望有回饋到板上的各位!
打字打得好累!
如果有要買車的人! Good Luck! ^^


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※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc) 
◆ From: 173.63.151.127
推 foolpig1234:非常強大，但是第四項字好多@@"
→ hellotom:其實可以直接問OTD(out-the-door)價格就好..細項意義不大
→ hellotom:有些州可以用學習駕照買車...不過更重要是要先辦保險
推 fool:沒錯 直接問他OTD price是多少，還有我買的時候現場就可以選
→ fool:車牌，掛上就可以直接開走，不用等兩週
→ ndr:有人用過costco/sams的auto program嗎?
推 longface:好文
→ AM0UR:文章中如果有非自己原創的部份,建議加個出處.
→ ocupy:不好意思沒有加出處..只說了從Car buying tips來的
推 cbt:推