看板 Perfume 關於我們 聯絡資訊
解放橘郡,惡名昭彰的神聖的分泌物(或是另一個翻譯是浪蕩唐璜), 最近在版上不知道為什麼炒得火熱(???), 網站fragrantica上有一篇文章竟然跟上了這個流行(時間明明不對) 出現了一篇文章--它竟然還有更可怕的版本? 原文:http://bit.ly/2hJW58b 怕短網址會失效,這邊附上篇名與作者: It's True! There is a “Vintage” Secretions Magnifiques by: Miguel Matos 以下是小的隨手翻(中英對照),因為真的很隨手,翻得也比較口語/不貼原文, 如果有意思誤解的部分煩請其他大大指正感謝QQ If there was something that managed to disrupt radically the perfume industry (besides the absurd IFRA restrictions) that thing was the launch of the fragrance Secretions Magnifiques by French niche brand État Libre d'Orange, setting the path of an iconoclastic line of surprising scents and concepts. My goal with this article is not to speak about how I had to throw up my lunch the first time I smelled it (ok I said it) or how it smells like blood and sperm and sweat and other stinky human fluids. The concept of the fragrance composed by perfumer Antoine Lie was to make an olfactory translation of the insides of the human body when it is under a state of extreme anxiety, panic or orgasm. “Eau de Adrenaline” could be the name for it, but no, the crazy people at État Libre d'Orange decided not to spare us with euphemisms. Even the communication shows a “penis fountain” in full activity. 如果說有一個東西嘗試動搖整個香水產業(除了荒謬的IFRA限制以外)那大概就會是法國 niche香水品牌解放橘郡發行了「神聖的分泌物」這支香水,預告著他們之後將產出的一 系列石破天驚的香水與概念。這篇文章的目標並不是為了要說我第一次聞到這支香水時我 如何把我的午餐給吐出來(好吧我說了)或是這聞起來有多像是精液或血液或是其他發臭 的人體分泌物。調香師Antoine Lie調製這款香稅的概念是為了用嗅覺去翻譯身體在極其 焦慮、痛苦甚至是絕爽時的身體反應。它本來可能叫做「腎上腺之水」,但不,解放橘郡 公司裡的瘋子決定不要用這麼委婉的詞饒過大家。甚至海報上都秀了一個「陰莖噴泉」的 完全體。 Most of the perfume aficionados already heard enough about Secretions Magnifiques and the braver ones actually smelled it in agony (some in joy, go figure). There is even a viral video of perfume critic and blogger Katie Puckrik smelling it for the first time and getting a whole lot of disgusting fun. So this scent is not new and if you search the net there are millions of reviews. What not everyone knows is that there was a previous version to the one that is on the market nowadays. Yes, my dear readers, I shall confirm the rumour. It is absolutely true. When I interviewed Antoine Lie he told me that Etienne de Swardt, owner of the brand, first intended to do a perfume based on the smell of sperm. 現今大多的香水控都已經聽過夠多關於神聖的分泌物的事,還有一些人非常勇敢的跑去聞 ,然後陷入痛苦之中(有一些人相當樂在其中,去找吧)。甚至還有一個火紅的影片裏面 是香水批評家與部落客Katie Puckrik第一次聞到這隻香之後被噁心的感覺逗得哈哈笑。 那麼這支香並不新,你上網搜尋會找到一百萬個評論。但少為人知的是,這支香有一個「 舊版」,與我們現在在市面上聞到的並不相同。是的,我親愛的讀者,我要來證實這個傳 言。這是千真萬確。當我訪問Antoine Lie時,他告訴我說當時解放橘郡的老闆Etienne de Swardt想要做一隻以精液的味道為底的香水: “Basically this was the beginning of État Libre d'Orange, when I met the owner, Etienne de Swardt. He wanted to make a statement about this industry, he tried to be very provocative. It could be a dada piece from the 1920s. It's a reaction from the very conceptualized and safe universe of fragrances. For me it's not a fragrance per se. It's more an olfactive construction, trying to push the limits to the point where we say that it's not possible to go further than that. And the purpose was creating something that would trigger a lot of conversation about why did we make this. And even though for you it's horrible and you cannot wear it (it's ok, I understand), we've found some people that are completely addicted to it. (…) I've made some modifications on this before, when you had not the milk and it was more sperm-like. It was horrible. And even the owner of Etat Libre d'Orange wanted to have it instead of the one that is on the market now, I really pushed and said I didn't want that. It's already very daring as it is. The other one would be too much for me.”—Antoine Lie's interview 「我與老闆Etienne de Swardt見面時,基本上這是解放橘郡的起點。他想要在這個香水 工業裡做出一個宣言,他想要挑戰。這可以是個1920年代的達達主義藝術作品。這是一個 對於現今非常概念化也非常安全的香水世界的一個回應。對我來說這並不只是一支香水; 這更是一個嗅覺經驗的構築,將這個東西推到極限,推到一個我們會說沒辦法再往下了的 境界。而目的就在於,我們想要創造一隻香水,可以開啟很多話題,讓大家討論為什麼我 們要做這支香水。而儘管對你來說這支香噁斃了根本穿不上身(沒關係,我了解),我們 還是有找到一些徹底迷上這支香的人。[……]我之前曾經做過一些修正,那時這支香裡 面沒有牛奶,聞起來更像精液。這真的太可怕了。解放橘郡的老闆想要這個版本而不是現 在市場上流通的這款,我強烈拒絕,說我真的不能接受。這支香已經很敢了。另外一個版 本對我來說太超過了。」──摘自Antoine Lie的訪談 I have been thinking about what Antoine told me since then. Some months ago my dear friend Barbara Herman, author of the Yesterday's Perfume blog, told me she remembered smelling a different version of SM. However, nobody believed her. Feeling more and more curious I asked Thomas Lindet, Etienne's assistant if this was true. He confirmed the information. Yes, there was an even nastier version of SM! Well, I had to go there again, even though I feared having to smell that bloody craziness one more time. And here it is, just arrived in the mail, cordially shipped by the friends at État Libre d'Orange, the 2006 version of the most terrible smell on Earth. It is now like a vintage, something for collectors and you can't find it for sale anywhere. This bottle came from Etienne's warehouse, actually. Antoine告訴我這件事之後我想了一段時間。幾月前,我的好友,Yesterday’s Perfume blog的格主Barbara Herman告訴我她有印象聞過一個跟現在版本不一樣的神聖的分泌物。 但沒有人相信她。我越來越好奇,於是我問了Etienne的助理Thomas Lindet說這件事是不 是真的。他確認了,這是真的,有一個比現在流通的版本更可怕的神聖的分泌物!嗯,我 必須要再嘗試一次,就算我真的很怕再聞一次那個可怕的血液味。然後它就寄到了,全球 最可怕的味道,2006年版。這罐其實是從Etienne的倉庫裡挖出來的。 Ok, you must be all thinking about the smell of it and that is the main reason for this article after all. I had the courage to smell it again and ... surprise! I liked it better! It is less bloody and maybe more fresh. It is less metallic and this metal bite was the worst thing for me in the commercial version of the fragrance. The “vintage” Secretions Magnifiques is obviously more focused on the sperm accord and it also lacks the milk touch. At first I thought I could even try to wear it. But not really. Minutes after spraying it I had to run to the bathroom to scrub it violently or just cut my arm off if necessary. So yes, there was a previous version. Yes, it was a tiny bit different but only in the first accords and then it gets revolting as we know it. I still would prefer the first formula over the current one, but all in all it is just a work of art not to be worn on the skin. I admire the concept and I will keep the bottle and file it for future reference. But, well, I had to try it, hadn't I? 好你們應該都在想像這是什麼味道,而這就是這篇文章的目的。我鼓起勇氣再聞一次…… 媽媽!我竟然比較喜歡這個版本!它沒這麼血腥,可能還比較清新一些。它沒有這麼重的 鐵銹味而這個鐵鏽味對我來說是市面販售版裡面最可怕的部分。這個「舊版」的神聖的分 泌物更著重在精液的味道上,而這個版本裡面也沒有牛奶的味道。我一開始還想說我搞不 好可以穿它。但我錯了。幾分鐘之後我就必須衝進廁所用暴力把這個味道洗掉,或如果有 必要的話直接把整隻手切掉。所以,是的,真的有一個舊版。是,它真的不太一樣,但只 有一開始的時候,之後就變成那個大家都知道的噁心的味道。我還是寧願選擇舊版,但總 而言之這就是一個藝術作品,不是拿來穿在身上的。我欣賞這個概念,會把這罐香水留著 備存以後可以用到。但,嗯,我還是得試它的,不是嗎? Finally, I have some news regarding Secretions Magnifiques. The brand is thinking of launching a “wearable” version of it. So maybe in the future we'll see a flanker presented as a light secretion that we can smell without regrets. 最後,我有個關於神聖的分泌物的消息。解放橘郡正在考慮發行一個「可以穿的」版本。 所以可能以後我們會看到一隻「輕盈版」的分泌物,而我們不會後悔聞到它的味道。 -- ※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc), 來自: ※ 文章網址: https://www.ptt.cc/bbs/Perfume/M.1482845298.A.DE5.html ※ 編輯: raisondetre9 (, 12/27/2016 21:31:47
sadoraemon: 感謝翻譯 看到未來輕盈版還是覺得可怕XD 12/27 21:35
curtischang: 天呀真可怕 12/27 21:41
tingover: 莫名的堅持這支欸XDDD 12/27 21:46
raisondetre9: 完全是個趕流行的意思(? 12/27 21:48
zkc: 不得不說他是一個非常成功的香水,即使很多人說很可怕 12/27 23:08
zkc: 還是吸引很多人去嘗試XDDDD 12/27 23:09
sadoraemon: 其是就是一種看鬼片的概念 (怕又愛看呀XD) 12/27 23:16
norabbc: 有翻譯看真好,但解放橘郡真的很堅持要做詭異的味道欸。 12/27 23:20
norabbc: 不過我還是會好奇輕盈款 XD 這是逆向行銷吧! 12/27 23:20
daifuku: 感謝翻譯與分享~這就算是輕盈版也還是沒人敢穿吧XD 12/27 23:22
keyas0403: 真的超級好奇啊 12/28 13:36
pppeko: 好可怕但越來越好奇 12/28 19:12
lanesep: 感謝翻譯。老闆的執念太強大了。讓我想起嘉明的味道(欸 12/28 20:51
mushpupu: 好想買來偷噴討厭的人喔 沒人這樣想嗎 12/28 23:18
emilyx38300: 感覺可以當防狼噴霧XDD (超奢侈 12/29 01:23
curtischang: 想起有個同事身上有類似的味道... 12/29 22:22
weae: 我不懂為何要這樣譁眾取寵 01/29 19:24
weae: 不會想試 聞臭味的管道很多 01/29 19:25